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I've been hearing a lot of chatter about Cashman Bingo. This is a vulturable slot machine. The way it works is there is a 5x5 game field. If the player gets a coin on any of the 24 squares (the center square has a separate function), then that money is added to the corresponding square on a 5x5 bingo card on a separate screen. Any given square must have at least some money to count as being marked. When the any row, column, or diagonal is fully marked, the player wins all the money from the coins on that line.
So, if an abandoned game has a card with already so-many squares covered, it has a positive expected value. It's not just a matter of the number of squares covered, but how the marks are arranged and how much money is already in the marked squares. However, I'm looking for a basic strategy that considers the number of marks only. For purposes of discussion, you may count the free square as a marked square.
In preliminary discussions, I think that 16 is probably where a game becomes positive, but this is not based on feel from other players, who gave me permission to discuss this.
For the poll, please indicate the least number of squares you would play Cashman Bingo.
Finally, here is a video to help understand the game.
Direct: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VmdpyaOLLt8
i never get a play because of campers
anyway, i would play when i see two or more '4 to a bingo'.
The image above shows 16 earned marks.
The image above shows 18 earned marks.
In other news, I jumped on a game with the following card recently. $0.75 bet level.
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Yes, I know, not a very good card, but I recorded it for research purposes.
It took 57 coins to get a bingo. According to a random simulation, it should have taken 13.22, on average. The probability of it taking 57 coins or more is 1 in 49,800.
So, I think we can put to rest any debate that the game is gaffed for the coins to land on spots that already have a coin.
The question is what is a good strategy for when the game is positive EV. I've had some anonymous discussion on this and it would seem there is no easy rule of thumb. One must consider a lot of factors. Soon I will post some pictures of games and ask for your opinion on whether they are +EV.
Would you guys have played this card at the $1.50 bet level? I found this game at the Rampart a few days ago.
I have tried to vulture this game several times, but without a pending bingo, it is usually a tough battle
Here are some shots from a game I played through. I recognize the first screen is probably not playable. I only played it for research purposes. The screen titles shall be below the images. Please indicate which screen is the least you would have played and why. The bet is $0.75.
Card 1
Card 2
Card 3
Card 4
Card 5
Card 6
Card 7
Card 8
it meets my criteria of at least 2 '4 to a bingo'
Same problem with Regal Riches but at least I have a good grip on when to play in my shop.
Add the prizes for all "one way" wins. Remember, if you get a double-bingo, the cell that goes through both lines will be paid twice. Also, I roughly estimate the center square to be worth about 8x the amount bet. Then divide that "sum of cased lines" by the amount bet. Let's call that ratio r = (sum of all prizes on one-away lines)/(bet size). My basic strategy is to play only if r > 80. Maybe the r factor should be 70 or 90. Yes, other factors should be considered as well, like being two-away from a Grand win. Shall we say this is just a starting point for discussion and not a hard and fast strategy, at least at this point.
Let's look at this example.
The one-away line is the diagonal from F1 to A5, to use Battleship notation. The total prizes on that line are $56.40. The bet amount is $1.50. Thus, the ratio of cased prizes to bet is 37.6. That makes this game negative EV.
All that said, I throw it open to the forum for comment.
i dont think the sum of that line is 56.40.Quote: WizardLet's look at this example.
The one-away line is the diagonal from F1 to A5, to use Battleship notation. The total prizes on that line are $56.40. The bet amount is $1.50. Thus, the ratio of cased prizes to bet is 37.6. That makes this game negative EV.
All that said, I throw it open to the forum for comment.
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doesnt the mini reset after it gets hit the 1st time?
Quote: 100xOddsi dont think the sum of that line is 56.40.
doesnt the mini reset after it gets hit the 1st time?
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Good point. That would seem to make sense.
Using Battleship notation, the sum of the one-away line would be:
D2 = $0.90 + $19.50 (full value of mini) = $20.40
C3 = 8 (using my wheel constant of 8x) * $1.50 = $12.00
B4 = $16.00 (reset value of mini) + $2.70 = $18.70
A5 = $1.80
Total = $52.90.
Dividing by the bet amount, the cased wins to bet ratio is 35.3, much less than the 70 required.
I'm proud to say I'm up $12 on this game. I want to play again to capture a wheel spin on video.
but when you do catch a big fish, it's in spades.Quote: WizardAristocrat games in general tend to be gaffed right and left to make it seem the player is close to catching a big fish, when he usually catches small ones.
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ie: line you hit with Maxi progressive also has a ~50x bet coin
or the bonus round has multiple 10x multipliers where normally you dont see any
Based on that, i will play any board (even 3 coins) if I see a Maxi.
I'm 2 for 2 (small sample size)
Me too. Although I've had some big hits, it's not a great earner for me. The entry point is WAAAAY later than you think it needs to be. Incredibly frustrating game.Quote: LuckAsAnArtI lose a lot on this game.
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I got the "awarded all values on the bingo board" feature the other day. That's a real unicorn. Thankfully, I was playing $3.75 with some decent numbers so it paid pretty nice ($600+).
You'll lose big time.Quote: 100xOdds
Based on that, i will play any board (even 3 coins) if I see a Maxi.
I'm 2 for 2 (small sample size)
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Now, whether you should chase the MAJOR is another proposition. I've chased a $7.50 major on a decent board and was two ways to hit it. Of course, I didn't get it. You'd have see a grown man verbally destroy an inanimate slot game if you were in the casino that day.:)
And of course you should chase the grand, but I've never seen a grand coin. Never seen a grand hit the wheel except on one FB post, and never seen a progressive of ANY stripe hit the wheel except once IRL (wasn't me).
Sometimes the guy comes down and juices the wheel value after it hits which is nice. It's kind of a "oh, sorry we screwed you here's a little extra" bit. Another reason I believe the bonus is gaffed.
here are some posts from elsewhere about the game with an alternative view of it
I'm not trying to stir up controversy - just thought it would make the discussion interesting
btw - machines are not my thing - so I have no opinion at all about the matter
the poster is mickey crimm - a machine pro who has a twitter page (linked at bottom) and is an extremely knowledgeable expert - I think - again - I don't know much about this stuff - but it is kinna intersting to me - until I started lurking around I never would have dreamed that machines could be beat and that some talented few could actually support themselves off of them
"The Wizard has started a thread on Cashman Bingo over on WoV. I think he doesn't know enough about the game at this point.
He is trying to determine how many squares on the Bingo Card should be covered to make it a positive play. I don't think that is the right approach.
To me it's not the number of squares that have been covered. It's the amount of money that's in those squares.
Here is the game in question. Check the board out but also look at the meters. There is a mini, minor, maxi and major meter (There is also a grand meter with several thousand dollars in it that you can't see in the pic).Those meters are important on this play. Not only for the amount of money in them but also whether or not they are on the Bingo Card.
In this pic you can see that one of the covered squares has a mini meter in it. If you bingo on that line you are awarded the mini meter. And one square has a major meter in it. If you bingo on that line you will be awarded the money in the major meter. There are actually two ways to bingo with the major meter in it.
This particular game is on the $1.50 bet level. The fact that the major meter, at $484, is on the board makes this a very strong play. It has huge expectation.
You are not always going to hit the major in this spot but you will get your share in the long run.
Another thing to know about this game. Once you've bingo'd and been awarded the money the board will reset. The middle space and two random spaces will be covered. Those two spaces will always be covered by a ball that has a meter in it.
Most of the time it will reset with a mini and minor meter on the board. Sometimes it will be two mini meters. Sometimes it will be two minor meters. This is what happens most of the time.
But every so often it will drop a maxi or major meter into one of those two spaces. Or they might drop onto the board sometime while the board is filling up.
That's when I like to play; when a maxi or major meter is on the board. I've never caught the grand meter on the board but maybe one of these days...
"the likelihood of squares getting filled is absolutely not equal. the same squares that already have coins in them keep getting hit, even when the bingo card is almost totally filled and there are lots of squares resulting in bingo."
Yes, thats true. Thats the reason I play for the amount of money on board, not the number of squares filled in.
Squares that have had balls land in them will keep getting balls landing in them and the money keeps building in those squares. The probability is a square already filled in has a much better chance to catch a ball than one that doesn't. But the ball that bingo's the card is going to come out.
It appears to me that the unfilled squares all have an equal chance of being hit. I base my strategy on that.
don't win on every play but I'm well ahead on this game playing for the maxi and major meters. I've yet to see the grand on the board.
Remember what I said about what happens at reset. There will always be two meters on the board at reset and most of the time it will be the two bottom meters. But sometimes the higher meters drop onto the board.
You will see that there is a mini meter on the board. And you will also see that there is a major meter on board.
Those are the only two meters on the board. That means those two meters were on the board from reset.
Will you play it from reset if that major meter is on the board? If you won't then give me a call. Hold the machine until I get there!"
https://twitter.com/mickeycrimm?lang=en
Note: Mickey's comment put in spoiler tags by moderator
.
However, I respect his point about when there is a Maxi, Major, or Grand on the board. A question for the forum -- would you play after a reset with a Maxi on the board? My gut feeling is only if it were on a diagonal and I would also consider the jackpot amount. A Major or Grand I would play wherever it was.
Another question -- what are the reset amount for the Maxi, Major, and Grand?
Finally, I would like to remind lilredrooster and the forum there is a rule against relaying messages from banned members. I'm put in a difficult spot regarding this post. I will let it go with a warning because it's not a message meant for the WoV, but a general comment for his audience. lilredrooster, consider yourself warned to at least ask permission before you do this again.
Meanwhile, I am going to edit your post to put Mickey's comments in spoiler tags.
As to Mike's comments, I personally wouldn't chase a Maxi on an otherwise naked board. I'd wait for it to become at least partially juiced. Major -- hard to say but I think I would chase under any circumstances. This is all going by gut instinct.
Grand is $8,000 flat on every denomination. It can go up a little depending on the progressive (not much), or it stays the same if it is a "flattop" (Mission's lingo for a non-progressive game). Maxi is $250 on $3.75 at reset and Major is $750 I believe. Double or divide as necessary per the bet amount.
Ironically, in that Slot Cats video in the original post they stumbled upon an extremely positive situation and got the best possible result. I wonder if they knew that. They kind of play naive in the video.
Congratulations!
Here's a game I found but decided not to play. Adding all the 1-off bingo values it's 29,475 credits, or 29475/375=78.6 units. I was very close to wanting to play it and thought if it were just slightly better, I would have. I was surprised all the coins were so low given 17 spots filled -- not a single "flaming" coin. Usually when it gets to 16 the prizes have had time to build up quite nicely, so I guess this is something of an exceptional setup.
An addition could be to take all of the coins that are not part of a 1-off bingo line, divide them by some factor corresponding to how unlikely they are to actually help you, then add that to the previously calculated sum. For example in my above photo, E4 at 3,450 credits can't contribute to a bingo unless E1 and E5 simultaneously fill (unlikely, but it does happen in this game), or C4 is first filled, then D4 is filled. If E4 had the Grand, for example, it would obviously be worth playing on that long-shot alone.
What is the reduction factor for coins not currently contributing to a 1-off bingo? I don't know, but intuitively I would imagine it is somewhere between 3 and 5. And this factor should change based on how likely it is for a different bingo to hit first.
I don't know if a bingo is more likely to happen in a spin with five possible 1-offs versus just one possible 1-off. That depends on exactly which way the game is gaffed. It may be that during each spin the game decides with 5% probability "you may allow a bingo to happen", and may place coins on the reels with fair randomness (but not fairly random values as mentioned early). Or it may be that once a bingo is possible, the game decides during each spin with 1% probability "make bingo(s) happen". The value of coins not currently contributing to 1-off bingos is greater in situations like the one I posted above if the latter is true than if the former is true. All of my experience playing the game tells me it's more likely that the mechanic is that bingos don't come more frequently when you have five or more spots versus just two. In other words, more coins does not = more "ready to hit".
If this additional valuation is taken with your 'r' and whatever minimum amount they must be, it would encompass the rule of playing for the Major alone. And Majors, Maxis, or other big coins on diagonals are more valuable because it is less likely for a different bingo to hit first since they fit in to 3 of 12 possible bingos instead of 2 of 12 on non-diagonals and thus are less likely to get excluded no matter what ends up developing on the empty board. It could be possible, though unlikely I suppose, for a Major to be very disconnected from the board, requiring multiple steps to become part of a 1-off bingo, while other weak 1-off bingos already exist, putting the play at risk of hitting a weak bingo before the Major can come into play. But if it's possible, it may not be significant, as the risk of quickly hitting a bingo before the board fills up is hardly a risk at all, and may even be a small (though below expectation) win.
One question: does the game ever award a bingo when no 1-off bingo yet exists? I don't think so, but if it did it would make some of what I wrote invalid. I also imagine the "all prizes awarded" feature doesn't happen until there's a 1-off bingo, but this may be something nobody but the programmers knows. I strongly suspect both the "bingo" and "all prizes on board awarded" features function similarly, where the game just checks for a 1-off bingo existing, then rolls something like 1% or .001%, respectively.
Quote: PlayYourCardsRightI would have chased that. Hard not to make a small profit.
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I think it's actually very easy to not make a small profit. In fact with a lot of the value being weighted towards one specific spot, it's possible it could be +EV while the modal outcome is a loss. I think I would be happy to bet anyone even money that they could play til they hit a bingo and lose (but I would not crossbook their action in the game).
Quote: NathanVHere's a game I found but decided not to play. Adding all the 1-off bingo values it's 29,475 credits, or 29475/375=78.6 units.
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With the ratio over 70, I would have played it.
As to how the game is gaffed, I think any given square on the board that already has a coin is about 10.5 times more likely to get hit against than any particular square that hasn't been touched yet. So, any given untouched square is equally likely to be hit -- there is no gaff to hit the less valuable spots.
In fact now that I think about it, I'm not entirely sure this 'r' system is appropriate. If in fact bingos don't become more likely as more 1-offs appear, as I suspect, then adding all the 1-offs is wrong. The 1-offs should in fact all be averaged, and the new 'r' should be much lower than 70. My own limited experience with these 5x and 6x 1-off boards is that they can still go a very long time, whereas I've had plays like the following go very quickly (this one dropped on my very first spin!)
I really hate dealing in anecdotes, though, so it might be time for me to hit up youtube and get a bigger recorded sample of how often a bingo drops compared to number of 1-offs.
I'm going to fire up the spreadsheets right now and try to substantiate my theory.
This may help with quantifying the threshold.
I love ‘no smoking’ in my casino!
Quote: DieterCan they send pictures of boards they feel they would play, as well as boards they feel they would not play?
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Okay, experts, would you play this board? $1.50 bet level.
no.Quote: WizardQuote: DieterCan they send pictures of boards they feel they would play, as well as boards they feel they would not play?
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Okay, experts, would you play this board? $1.50 bet level.
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the maxi is not in line with the wheel
Can we quote a banned member's posts from WOV?Quote: WizardFinally, I would like to remind lilredrooster and the forum there is a rule against relaying messages from banned members. I'm put in a difficult spot regarding this post. I will let it go with a warning because it's not a message meant for the WoV, but a general comment for his audience. lilredrooster, consider yourself warned to at least ask permission before you do this again.
Meanwhile, I am going to edit your post to put Mickey's comments in spoiler tags.
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ie:
https://wizardofvegas.com/forum/gambling/slots/18030-must-hit-by-progressives-for-dummies/3/#post840527
Quote: 100xOddsCan we quote a banned member's posts from WOV?
ie:
https://wizardofvegas.com/forum/gambling/slots/18030-must-hit-by-progressives-for-dummies/3/#post840527
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Yes, you may generally quote his old posts. An exception would be if you quoted something he got banned for. Your example is a good one of an allowable quote.
The way I assume the game works (and I could easily be wrong) is any given unmarked square is more unlikely to be hit than a marked one -- significantly. It could be the game plays more fairly in the early stages of the card, but when the player is one away, it seems the same marked squares keep getting hit. Under my theory of weighted squares, the player would still be about twice as likely to bingo with two squares that are one-away than with one square, all other things being equal.
Comments?
Quote: NathanVWizard, what would you guess is the chance of getting a bingo when you have one single 1-off spot, as well as the chance when you have two 1-off spots?
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I get 0.64% for one one-off and 1.36% for two one-offs. Please keep in mind the player might hit other unmarked spots and eventually get a bingo somewhere else. So don't take the inverse as an estimate of the spins needed to bingo. Also, my figures should be considered very rough, but I do think the second figure should be close to twice the first.
Quote: WizardQuote: NathanVWizard, what would you guess is the chance of getting a bingo when you have one single 1-off spot, as well as the chance when you have two 1-off spots?
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I get 0.64% for one one-off and 1.36% for two one-offs. Please keep in mind the player might hit other unmarked spots and eventually get a bingo somewhere else. So don't take the inverse as an estimate of the spins needed to bingo. Also, my figures should be considered very rough, but I do think the second figure should be close to twice the first.
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So 4.08%, say more conservatively 4% would be the chance to bingo with six 1-offs, right?
This puts the chances at missing in 100 spins at 1.69%
in 200 spins at .028%
in 300 spins at .00048%
in 400 spins at .0000081%, or 1 in 12,345,446
Who here has ever missed with six 1-offs in 400 spins? I'll raise my hand, multiple times, and my other hand for several of my friends. In fact anyone who has been invested 250 units before hitting a bingo has likely missed 400 spins (assuming 37.5% base+free game RTP).
The data I've gathered show no correlation between number of 1-off spots and probability of bingo. The coins appearing on the reels to trigger bingo is a misdirection.
I believe the game has a bundle of features:
(1) "new position on board filled"
(2) "new position on board filled and prizes increased"
(3) "prizes increased"
(4) "bingo"
(5) "all prizes awarded"
I believe (1-2) may appear when there are zero or one 1-off bingo spots. I believe (3-5) may appear when there is one or more 1-off bingo spot. I believe the game rolls every spin whether or not to trigger a feature, then looks at what is possible, and chooses which one appears based on its own probability. For example (3) is more common than (4) in my experience, and (5) is obviously extremely rare.
This game is a terror.
Direct: https://youtu.be/-Wc2UoifTqk
This Maxi is in line with wheel. ($0.75 bet lvl)Quote: 100xOddsno.Quote: WizardOkay, experts, would you play this board? $1.50 bet level.
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the maxi is not in line with the wheel
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I missed the Maxi but still made a profit because of double bingo and that huge $41 coin.