So would it be worth it on hands that normally should be folded? I am only concerned if this is optimal. I am aware that many dealers or casinos won`t allow this and also most players will get resentful if you win on their hand.
Thoughts?
Quote: HunterhillI know it`s + Ev on hands that should not be folded but it seemed like you are risking one unit to win 4 units,so even if you won once every 5 times you would break even. what am I missing?
How is your decision to buy the hand any different than their decision to fold? Either one of you could have paid 1 unit to try to "save" the hand. If folding is the right play, the buying the hand is not. The decisions are exact inverses of each other, regardless of who makes them.
But UTH is a game full of player errors. So I'd expect that you'll find lots of people who do fold incorrectly. one instance that I saw tonight was J2 on an AAKK7 board. buying that jack has a TON of value.
Quote: rdw4potusHow is your decision to buy the hand any different than their decision to fold? Either one of you could have paid 1 unit to try to "save" the hand. If folding is the right play, the buying the hand is not. The decisions are exact inverses of each other, regardless of who makes them.
But UTH is a game full of player errors. So I'd expect that you'll find lots of people who do fold incorrectly. one instance that I saw tonight was J2 on an AAKK7 board. buying that jack has a TON of value.
But there's gotta be value in it...because if they call, it costs them three units (they already had two invested in it)
It only costs you ONE, to win one or two (if the dealer qualifies or not)
Seems like a bet with zero HA (pays 1:1 with a fair chance of winning)
Quote: HunterhillYou would not win one or two,you would win 3 or 4 because you would now own the ante and blind that they had placed.
well, in that case, its a HUGE advantage!
Good luck finding a player that'll go along with it, and even MORE luck finding a casino that'll let you do it!
Quote: TIMSPEEDBut there's gotta be value in it...because if they call, it costs them three units (they already had two invested in it)
It only costs you ONE, to win one or two (if the dealer qualifies or not)
Seems like a bet with zero HA (pays 1:1 with a fair chance of winning)
But the units that are already wagered are sunk either way. The ante and the blind can't be taken back in any case. So you or the guy next to you or whoever are just trying to decide whether it's worth a 1 unit bet on the river to try to beat the dealer (or push) and reclaim those ante and blind bets (and any payment on the ante, if applicable). To be clear, I would also try to claim the blind bet on the saved hand, even though it wasn't paid. It would have been forfeited by the fold, so that 1 unit would be "mine" if I bought the hand and avoided the fold as well.
Quote: RogerKintHunterhill and TIMSPEED, please do not buy hands like 9,6 off with a 2,2,7,J,A board. Besides being a turrable value (it will sink in eventually), even if you do win, surveillance is gonna be on dat ass for hole-carding lol.
Right, but I think what HunterHill is trying to say is:
For betting ONE unit, he stands to win 3 or 4 units...so even on some MARGINAL hands (where the EV is negative, but only JUST so) it's actually worth it to buy the hand for the chance to win 3 or 4 units....
But like I said, good luck getting people and/or casinos to actually allow them. (Similar to taking odds for someone ELSE...dealers just don't like to see people do it)
Quote: TIMSPEEDRight, but I think what HunterHill is trying to say is:
For betting ONE unit, he stands to win 3 or 4 units...so even on some MARGINAL hands (where the EV is negative, but only JUST so) it's actually worth it to buy the hand for the chance to win 3 or 4 units....
I understand what he is saying. He is wrong.
If it's worth it for me to bet one unit (on your hand) to try to win 3 or 4 units, it's also worth it for you to put one unit in to try to win those same 3 or 4 units. The calculation is the same. You cannot manufacture EV out of thin air by passing the hand to the player on your left (imagine if it were possible... you could just collude with the player on your left and play from a shared bankroll).
I think that your problem is that you are considering money that you've bet on the ante and blind as "your" money. That's not true any more once the cards are dealt. That money is in the pot. And, if it's worth it for me to bet a unit to try to win that pot, it's also worth it for you to bet that same unit to win that same pot.