Quote: MrVQuote: AlanMendelsonAxelwolf cheap batteries dont work in a Mercedes. LOL
Ridiculous.
I found a battery for a 2003 Mercedes for less than a hundred bucks.
see:
PRESTOLITE VALUE PLUS (EX)
BATTERY. PRESTOLITE
Battery SUPERSEDED CCA: 850; CRANKING AMPS: 1000; RESERVE MIN = 140 BATT MUST BE VENTED OUTSIDE OF VEHICLE; OE CCA: 825
$90.59
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Battery must be vented outside of vehicle?????
LOL, says the guy who won't just replace his battery when needed.Quote: AlanMendelsonAxelwolf cheap batteries dont work in a Mercedes. LOL
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I'm on my second Merchandise, the first one was totaled, however, prior to it getting totaled I replace it with an $85 battery and it worked just fine for about a year before it was totaled. The battery they would have suggested was probably double that price. As long as it fits and has the correct voltage and cold cranking amps it's probably fine.
Just out of curiosity, is your battery in the front or in the trunk? And if it goes totally dead and the doors are locked how are you getting in and out? Now you can't even get a jump start because you can't open the hood/trunk without going through a bunch of Hoops. The blade key can be a tricky pain in the ass.
Quote: AxelWolfLOL, says the guy who won't just replace his battery when needed.Quote: AlanMendelsonAxelwolf cheap batteries dont work in a Mercedes. LOL
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I'm on my second Merchandise, the first one was totaled, however, prior to it getting totaled I replace it with an $85 battery and it worked just fine for about a year before it was totaled. The battery they would have suggested was probably double that price. As long as it fits and has the correct voltage and cold cranking amps it's probably fine.
Just out of curiosity, is your battery in the front or in the trunk? And if it goes totally dead and the doors are locked how are you getting in and out? Now you can't even get a jump start because you can't open the hood/trunk without going through a bunch of Hoops. The blade key can be a tricky pain in the ass.
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Battery is under the hood.
My 2003 Mercedes comes with a remote key fob locking system. But when the fob battery dies or the car battery dies there is a "slim key" that fits into the fob that allows you to open the doors, turn the ignition and lock and unlock the glove box and trunk.
You must have a classic Mercedes not to have this slim key. Or is that what you call the blade key?
You must use the slim key or blade key for the valet lock on your trunk.
Quote: AlanMendelsonQuote: MrVQuote: AlanMendelsonAxelwolf cheap batteries dont work in a Mercedes. LOL
Ridiculous.
I found a battery for a 2003 Mercedes for less than a hundred bucks.
see:
PRESTOLITE VALUE PLUS (EX)
BATTERY. PRESTOLITE
Battery SUPERSEDED CCA: 850; CRANKING AMPS: 1000; RESERVE MIN = 140 BATT MUST BE VENTED OUTSIDE OF VEHICLE; OE CCA: 825
$90.59
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Battery must be vented outside of vehicle?????
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It means it is a sealed battery.
Charging a lead acid battery produces hydrogen and oxygen; they give it an escape path to the outside to reduce the chances of "boom" should a spark trigger them to recombine.
The vent is a pretty small hose that routes from the compartment where the battery is to somewhere less confined.
The only one to come up with a reasonable explanation about why my car didnt need a jump after five days was Dieter.
Dieter suggested the cell phone charger had been draining my battery.
I have now unplugged the cell phone charger from the cigarette lighter.
If my cell phone needs a charge it's simple enough to plug the charger back in.
Thanks for the comment Dieter.
I drive my vehicle till the scrap guy comes to take it away. Do lots of my own repairs . Two things I was never cheap on was battery and tires. When I moved to Alberta in 2008 my 1997 dodge got a top of the line battery in it. $240 or so. Seven winters near Edmonton before moving back to Ontario. The battery died got 11 years out of it with no problems along the way. Truck goes this week to the recycle yard here can't see putting $2000-2500 into the engine repair.. was built late 1996 so 25 yrs on the road only three batteries. Paid $9000 for it in 2007 when itt had 75000 miles on it and looked like new .
Six cars and a truck over 39 yrs spent under $50,000 total on all of them.
Drove them over half a million miles or so. I laughed at my brother when he told.me how much his truck cost... Same amount I spent lifetime.
That's what I call a blade key. I have had issues with them, depending on your model they can be a pain in the butt to use, there's usually some special trick you have to do to make them work.Quote: AlanMendelsonQuote: AxelWolfLOL, says the guy who won't just replace his battery when needed.Quote: AlanMendelsonAxelwolf cheap batteries dont work in a Mercedes. LOL
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I'm on my second Merchandise, the first one was totaled, however, prior to it getting totaled I replace it with an $85 battery and it worked just fine for about a year before it was totaled. The battery they would have suggested was probably double that price. As long as it fits and has the correct voltage and cold cranking amps it's probably fine.
Just out of curiosity, is your battery in the front or in the trunk? And if it goes totally dead and the doors are locked how are you getting in and out? Now you can't even get a jump start because you can't open the hood/trunk without going through a bunch of Hoops. The blade key can be a tricky pain in the ass.
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Battery is under the hood.
My 2003 Mercedes comes with a remote key fob locking system. But when the fob battery dies or the car battery dies there is a "slim key" that fits into the fob that allows you to open the doors, turn the ignition and lock and unlock the glove box and trunk.
You must have a classic Mercedes not to have this slim key. Or is that what you call the blade key?
You must use the slim key or blade key for the valet lock on your trunk.
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Quote: AxelWolf
Just out of curiosity, is your battery in the front or in the trunk? And if it goes totally dead and the doors are locked how are you getting in and out? Now you can't even get a jump start because you can't open the hood/trunk without going through a bunch of Hoops. The blade key can be a tricky pain in the ass.
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On my Cadillac the battery was inside behind the seat. It did have "jump" terminals under the hood.
I was thinking the same.Quote: coilmanTwo years old with 5 warranty it's likely fully covered for replacement. Likely first three years.
Back in the day, I drove an S-10. When the factory battery died, I got one from Wal-Mart. It died 18 months later, and was still under full warrantee. So I got a free replacement, which, like clockwork, failed in 18 months. Rinse, repeat, and the third one failed 18 months later. Fortunately for me, when I brought the third dead battery back to Wal-Mart, they didn't have my model in stock, so they refunded me the purchase price of the original battery I had bought from them!
I ended up going to Auto Zone and bought a little higher quality (and pricier) battery that lasted until I sold the truck 7 or so years later.
So I drove for 40 minutes to another city and when I turned off the car and waited for the headlights to turn off and for the car computer to finish up, it rose to 12.0 volts.
Later I took a nap in another parking lot and just using the power seat knocked the voltage down to 11.8 volts, but it recovered.
I drove home another 40 minutes and I was surprised the voltage hadn't exceeded 12.0 volts after I parked the car. I would have expected 12.1 or 12.2 volts. Maybe I have to drive more hours to get that, because I have seen those readings lately.
Well, winter is coming back with a vengeance tomorrow, so I've got to see about putting another hour or two on the car today.
I use one (a CTEK) on a car I don't often drive.
Quote: ChumpChangeI got into my car last night after 4 days of not driving. The cig lighter voltmeter read 10.7 volts, which is too low to start the car. I waited 2 to 3 minutes for the dome lights to turn off and for the battery to wake up and it rose to 11.1 volts. I was barely able to start the car. Last week, under the same circumstances, I waited for 11.1 volts to start the car and it failed. I tried a couple more times and it failed, then the voltage crashed to under 8.0 volts and my dash went dark and the clock stopped and had to be reset later, and I had to jump start the car. It was 55 degrees yesterday and 40 degrees last week when I tried to start the car.
So I drove for 40 minutes to another city and when I turned off the car and waited for the headlights to turn off and for the car computer to finish up, it rose to 12.0 volts.
Later I took a nap in another parking lot and just using the power seat knocked the voltage down to 11.8 volts, but it recovered.
I drove home another 40 minutes and I was surprised the voltage hadn't exceeded 12.0 volts after I parked the car. I would have expected 12.1 or 12.2 volts. Maybe I have to drive more hours to get that, because I have seen those readings lately.
Well, winter is coming back with a vengeance tomorrow, so I've got to see about putting another hour or two on the car today.
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The good news is that it sounds like your alternator is working well.
Quote: DRichThe good news is that it sounds like your alternator is working well.
The bad news is you still don't know what's wrong.
Must make you nervous, driving a car that can and almost certainly will fail you at any time without warning.
tick ... tick ... tick ...
If the problem persists, bust open your piggy bank and take your Teutonic chariot to an automotive electric tech for proper diagnosis; now you're just guessing, as are we.
Oh, leaving a USB cord plugged in to the cigarette lighter should not drain the battery unless it is either internally defective or attached to a device which draws current.
Quote: MrVQuote: DRichThe good news is that it sounds like your alternator is working well.
The bad news is you still don't know what's wrong.
Must make you nervous, driving a car that can and almost certainly will fail you at any time without warning.
tick ... tick ... tick ...
If the problem persists, bust open your piggy bank and take your Teutonic chariot to an automotive electric tech for proper diagnosis; now you're just guessing, as are we.
Oh, leaving a USB cord plugged in to the cigarette lighter should not drain the battery unless it is either internally defective or attached to a device which draws current.
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I am fortunate and spoiled. When I have a car problem I just get a new car. The idea of being stranded just horrifies me. I know I way overpay for my security, but to me it is worth it.
Quote: DRichQuote: MrVQuote: DRichThe good news is that it sounds like your alternator is working well.
The bad news is you still don't know what's wrong.
Must make you nervous, driving a car that can and almost certainly will fail you at any time without warning.
tick ... tick ... tick ...
If the problem persists, bust open your piggy bank and take your Teutonic chariot to an automotive electric tech for proper diagnosis; now you're just guessing, as are we.
Oh, leaving a USB cord plugged in to the cigarette lighter should not drain the battery unless it is either internally defective or attached to a device which draws current.
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I am fortunate and spoiled. When I have a car problem I just get a new car. The idea of being stranded just horrifies me. I know I way overpay for my security, but to me it is worth it.
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You can't put a price on peace of mind. Just don't be the type that panics when the fuel shows a quarter tank.
Quote: DRich
I am fortunate and spoiled. When I have a car problem I just get a new car. The idea of being stranded just horrifies me. I know I way overpay for my security, but to me it is worth it.
I daresay yours is the attitude of most Americans today, and that's a damned shame.
No offense intended; I mean it's a shame that people no longer try to maintain their cars.
Yeah, I know, they've got much more complex and heavily dependent on computers, but there are still many things people can do to maintain their car and save money.
Oil changes, rotating tires, flushing coolant, and diagnosing and curing many problems.
Heck, with OBD info available you can pull up trouble codes that help you zero in on the problem so you can fix it yourself.
It just takes that first step...
Me, I drive and maintain old Volvos, everything from rebuilding engines to changing blown light bulbs.
When I travel in my cars I keep a tool kit and a few spare parts with me: this gives me the security of knowing I can likely repair my car if it breaks down.
Still, as a fallback I am in AAA.
Edited to add: I had to look after I posted.
The average age of a car on U.S. roads rose to 12.1 years in 2021, according to IHS Markit. The average age had been 11.9 years in 2020. In 2002, the average age was 9.6 years. There was a time when drivers didn't expect to get more than 100,000 miles out of their cars at the most.Sep 28, 2021
https://www.cnbc.com › 2021/09/28
Cars on American roads keep getting older - CNBC
Quote: AlanMendelsonCars on American roads keep getting older - CNBC]
My daily driver is a 1982 Volvo 244 Turbo.
Nearly tip-top shape.
Good body, interior, engine / transmission / drivetrain.
We bought a new Mazda CX-5 turbo Carbon Edition for the wife, and I like many things about it, but there are things I dislike as well about a new car.
With all the electronic features added since 1982 it is much more complex and there are a lot more things to go wrong as the car ages.
The Mazda is about as solid as a Japanese car can be, but that isn't as solid as my old Volvo, constructed using stouter, thicker Swedish steel.
To show the difference, my wife once drove an '86 Volvo 740 turbo; we were stopped at a light and were rear ended by a lady in a small Asian compact; the only damage to the Volvo was a barely bent bumper, but the other car was totaled, its front end demolished.
The Volvo's engine is simple and very strong: I rebuilt it once and now, almost 20 years later it purrs like a kitten, no smoke, no issues.
There is also the matter of shifting gears manually which leads to a more involved driving experience.
Very satisfying ... and I could give a rat's ass what the Jones' think about me driving an old Volvo...
Quote: billryanJust don't be the type that panics when the fuel shows a quarter tank.
You've obviously never driven an older Ford - especially an old-school V8 Mustang.
Quote: billryanJust don't be the type that panics when the fuel shows a quarter tank.
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I usually don't get concerned unless I'm two needlewidths until I can see the entire E. I start double checking if I can conveniently refuel around 3/8ths.
It kinda sucks having to push a vehicle to the fuel station or to go for a hike with a jerry can.
Quote: ThatDonGuyQuote: billryanJust don't be the type that panics when the fuel shows a quarter tank.
You've obviously never driven an older Ford - especially an old-school V8 Mustang.
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71 mustang fastback first car I ever owned
don't ever remember thinking about mpg while driving it
Just filled the car tonight took 10 Canadian gallons guess that's 12 US. $70 Canadian cha ching
Quote: coilmanQuote: ThatDonGuyQuote: billryanJust don't be the type that panics when the fuel shows a quarter tank.
You've obviously never driven an older Ford - especially an old-school V8 Mustang.
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71 mustang fastback first car I ever owned
don't ever remember thinking about mpg while driving it
Just filled the car tonight took 10 Canadian gallons guess that's 12 US. $70 Canadian cha ching
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You don't go by liters anymore?
Quote: billryanQuote: coilmanQuote: ThatDonGuyQuote: billryanJust don't be the type that panics when the fuel shows a quarter tank.
You've obviously never driven an older Ford - especially an old-school V8 Mustang.
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71 mustang fastback first car I ever owned
don't ever remember thinking about mpg while driving it
Just filled the car tonight took 10 Canadian gallons guess that's 12 US. $70 Canadian cha ching
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You don't go by liters anymore?
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It was 45.5 L which is basically 10 gallons @ $1.54.9 a litre ... Just glad it wasn't the old dodge which took 135L to fill on empty
Quote: billryanIt's been a long time since I drove in Canada. I was wondering if they'd switched.
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I believe their milk still comes in 4 liter bags too.
45.5 liters x $1.549 = $70.48 CAN
$7.05/gallon (UK gallons) divided by $1.72 CAN/GBP = £4.10/UK gallon
$5.87/gallon (US gallons) divided by $1.29 CAN/USD = $4.55 USD/US gallon
But England TV stations will say the wind is blowing 100 miles per hour instead of 160 kilometers per hour.
I just got more gas at $3.80/gallon. It's a record high here.
ZH headline rn: Warning UK Petrol Prices May Hit £1.60/Litre After Russian Actions
£1.60 divided by £0.75 GBP/USD = $2.13 USD/litre x 3.785412 litres/US gallon = $8.06 USD/US gallon
£1.60 divided by £0.58 GBP/CAN = $2.76 CAN/litre x 4.54609 litres/UK gallon = $12.55 CAN/UK gallon
Quote: ChumpChanger.
I just got more gas at $3.80/gallon. It's a record high here.
Feel fortunate. It is over $5 in many parts of California.
Quote: ChumpChangeBut England TV stations will say the wind is blowing 100 miles per hour instead of 160 kilometers per hour....
ZH headline rn: Warning UK Petrol Prices May Hit £1.60/Litre
Though we are mostly metric, we cling to Miles and Miles per hour for driving. km and km/h is not yet catching on.
We also tend to weigh ourselves in stones and pounds (not just pounds)
When we were in Europe, we became obliged to price groceries by the kg and it became illegal to price or even dual price in £/lb
And yes. Diesel and Petrol prices local to me have jumped to £1.55 / £1.49 per litre respectively. they were about £1.20 before Christmas. they will be £1.60 already at some places. We've always paid about four times your price for petrol gas. It is mostly petrol tax.
My battery warranty is only good at my place of purchase, or that franchise, so if I'm at AutoZone with my nearly dead battery, they'll tell me to buy a new one for twice the price (but there has been inflation so is it really twice the price when a replacement under warranty would be free?).
Winter is back and I'll have to make an appointment at my place of warranty and that could be next week, in which case I'll probably have to jump the car again before then.
I worry they won't hook up the battery vent hose right and I'll get dizzy from hydrogen gas leaks under my back seat.
Quote: ChumpChangeI went to a local AutoZone store and their website says they do free battery testing and recharging. So I get there, and the guy measures 12.10 volts (34%), then he has to take the battery out of the car and bring it into the shop to do further testing and charging. That looks like too much work for freakin' free, because he has to put it all back together again. Imagine if I go there once a month for a recharge, for free, OMG! I thought they would just wheel out a charger to the side of the car and hope it doesn't rain or short out or explode or something. Well, my battery tested BAD so he didn't even bother getting very far on recharging it. I think the rechargers will tell him it's bad in 3 minutes or less, but he said it would take 45 minutes to recharge the battery. So me going in there 1 hour before closing is a bad idea because of all the work involved, make it 2 hours before closing at least.
My battery warranty is only good at my place of purchase, or that franchise, so if I'm at AutoZone with my nearly dead battery, they'll tell me to buy a new one for twice the price (but there has been inflation so is it really twice the price when a replacement under warranty would be free?).
Winter is back and I'll have to make an appointment at my place of warranty and that could be next week, in which case I'll probably have to jump the car again before then.
I worry they won't hook up the battery vent hose right and I'll get dizzy from hydrogen gas leaks under my back seat.
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Wouldn't it be easier to start a Go Fund Me account?
Anyway, I can keep getting these Interstate batteries that only last me 1-2 years or less, or pay $190 for a Duralast Gold at AutoZone with nary a complaint says the salesman.
Could your prorated credit be applied to one?
Yeah, we tried to do that here in the states in the 70's and 80's. It didn't catch on here, either. In fact, some people went as far as shooting the metric road signs down with shotguns!Quote: OnceDearThough we are mostly metric, we cling to Miles and Miles per hour for driving. km and km/h is not yet catching on.
Quote: ChumpChange
Winter is back and I'll have to make an appointment at my place of warranty and that could be next week, in which case I'll probably have to jump the car again before then.
What are you talking about? It is supposed to be 88 degrees here today.
Quote: DRichQuote: ChumpChange
Winter is back and I'll have to make an appointment at my place of warranty and that could be next week, in which case I'll probably have to jump the car again before then.
What are you talking about? It is supposed to be 88 degrees here today.
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Damn. Only going to be in the low 80s here. Wearing a sweatshirt to enjoy my outdoor breakfast. Currently 68.
Quote: JoemanYeah, we tried to do that here in the states in the 70's and 80's. It didn't catch on here, either. In fact, some people went as far as shooting the metric road signs down with shotguns!Quote: OnceDearThough we are mostly metric, we cling to Miles and Miles per hour for driving. km and km/h is not yet catching on.
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South of Tucson between Tucson and the border the speed limit signs are in kilometers, or were around 8 years ago anyways. Only place I’ve ever seen it.
If the battery has been leaking, it could corrode wires in the area. Batteries that are deeply discharged can freeze at just below 32F instead of the usual -70F for fully charged batteries. So maybe jump the car when it's above freezing outside.
There's also the usual light that is stuck on, like a mirror on the sunflap, or inside the glovebox, or inside the trunk, or a phone charger plugged into the cig lighter that doesn't stop when the car turns off. Have to find leaks of over 50 mA in the circuits when the car is off.
I've killed the battery by leaving the radio on for an hour or two while the car is off. So that's more reason to bring the jumper equipment with me if I'm gonna do that.

Keep it in the trunk til needed, then it's easy to hook up and use.
It's surprisingly small and robust.
It will start a car with a weak battery: that's it's main use.
But one day my alternator died and the car wouldn't go, so I hooked it up to the battery and drove a few miles home: a great tool
Now I keep coolant and a pint bottle of distilled water in the trunk. There might be a bottle of oil there too, I'm not sure. I used to drive a car in the late '80's that would need a quart of oil on every gas fill up. I don't have that problem now.
I've discovered no deposits of scale in the radiator or engine block, no overheating, no problems at all.
Some experts advise that you NOT add distilled water: see...https://rislone.com/blog/cooling/why-you-should-never-use-distilled-water-in-your-cooling-system/
.
Quote: MrVOn the subject of using distilled water to mix with antifreeze: I've been driving and maintaining my vehicles for many years and have never used anything other than tap water with antifreeze, mixed 50 /50, and have had no problems.
I've discovered no deposits of scale in the radiator or engine block, no overheating, no problems at all.
Some experts advise that you NOT add distilled water: see...https://rislone.com/blog/cooling/why-you-should-never-use-distilled-water-in-your-cooling-system/
.
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I'm glad you wrote this. I dont recall any shop using distilled water.
I've always lived in towns that don't have "hard water" so maybe I just got lucky.
Quote: HunterhillI’ve always used the 50/50 premix and never had any problems.377k and still going.
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Indeed. Premix coolant is the no-fuss approach, and is very similar in cost.
Upon further inspection, the cig lighter light goes out after I shut the car off then open the car door; and the cig lighter stays on.
I drove around for 30-40 minutes, and my cig lighter voltmeter hit 12.5 volts a minute after I shut down the car, so that's the first clue I got a new battery. I didn't have to reset the clock on the radio, so I'm a bit suspicious.
I go back later this week for a change of oil. The garage I go to is under new management, so the labor rate has increased from $65/hr to $110/hr. People who used to work there are leaving, maybe because of age. But it's possible the new recruits will be worth the extra high labor rate, idk.
It's cheaper to buy a new battery than to go joy-riding for 24 hours only to find out the battery is still bad, especially with gas breaking $4.40/gallon yesterday.
Quote: ChumpChange
I drove around for 30-40 minutes, and my cig lighter voltmeter hit 12.5 volts a minute after I shut down the car, so that's the first clue I got a new battery. I didn't have to reset the clock on the radio, so I'm a bit suspicious.
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There is a pretty common adapter that mechanics can use to provide a little power to the radio to keep the presets intact during a battery change.
Glad you got your battery sorted out.