Iron Cross Variation

Hey y'all. Hopefully this is in the right topic.

I'm heading down to foxwoods this weekend and what y'all to have a look at this variation of the iron cross I thought of.

So here it goes. It takes $130 to make the bets. (10,25,30,30,10,10) $10 in the field and a $4 horn. The idea is that you will bring in atleaset $20 every roll.

Just give me your honest opinion on the idea. Thank you for your time.

So you will get 20 each roll. But then you have to replace the horn and field when no field so on those rolls you only bring in 6. What about a 7, then you lose 130. So you need approx 11 rolls before you profit. You will burn through 1500 in under 45 minutes.

I came to realize that as I started to really think about it. As the wizard says 'dont hedge bets'. I think this system is flawed from the get go.

What I do for work tends to leave me with a lot of time to think. I tend to think up ideas and think they are great till I start either thinking more about it or I forget about it. Thank you for your post and your pointers.

Quote: GWAE

So you will get 20 each roll. But then you have to replace the horn and field when no field so on those rolls you only bring in 6. What about a 7, then you lose 130. So you need approx 11 rolls before you profit. You will burn through 1500 in under 45 minutes.

This strategy would actually net you $7 not $6 but I don't particularly care for it either. I do play cross sometimes but I always start out with $51 inside (5,6,8) and $10 on the field. I press one unit on the 5 if it hits. I press evenly on the 6/8 when either hits by one unit as well. I never raise the field bet until I'm over $30 at which time I increase to $15. When the field hits on the 4, 9 or 10 on the first hit, I have them place the field winnings on that number. Eventually, on a long roll, all of the numbers are placed. At this point I continue to press one unit increments on any placebet number hit until they go beyond $30. At that point, depending on the number it's $50/$60, $75/$90, $100/$120, etc.

The cross is great for long rolls with limited risk ($61). It does take a decent roll to net earnings. I also reset wagers once I reach a certain tier. When any placebet hits $200 using the strategy above, I turn bets off one roll. If the 7 doesn't hit, I take the bets down for one roll. If the 7 doesn't hit, I reset to $51 and $10 and start all over again. I find this strategy works well when I roll the dice.

Quote: Wildwillis1

I came to realize that as I started to really think about it. As the wizard says 'dont hedge bets'. I think this system is flawed from the get go.

What I do for work tends to leave me with a lot of time to think. I tend to think up ideas and think they are great till I start either thinking more about it or I forget about it. Thank you for your post and your pointers.

You don't need to think at all. Every bet in craps (except the free odds bet) carries a negative expectation. That's all you need to know. You can't combine a bunch of bets with negative values and get a positive. Much like if you owned a store, you can't sell a bunch of different products all at a loss and expect to make a profit.

The best way to play craps is decide how much you want to risk and then get as much as possible of that money in a free odds bet. E.g. you want to risk $40 per shooter at a $10 minimum table -- bet $10 on the pass line and $30 on the free odds.

Sodawater



Nice post...

For the average guy just playing now and then a hedge is just not a good
way to go (with the exception of craps check on come out)

I do think there are a couple of ways to hedge that are better than most
but you better understand what you are doing.

I dont play that way, I bet on my shot and I sink or swim based on how
well I am throwing.

You have to look at it this way, each bet is a contract with the casino, and each
bet costs you something, the more contracts you have working, the higher
the cost.

I understand craps check is no different, I just mention that for a guy with a
very limited bank roll.

dicesetter

Quote: sodawater

The best way to play craps is decide how much you want to risk and then get as much as possible of that money in a free odds bet. E.g. you want to risk $40 per shooter at a $10 minimum table -- bet $10 on the pass line and $30 on the free odds.

While I'll agree with you that playing the pass/don't is the best bet on craps, I have such a small attention span that I'll get bored and end up making bets anyways just for the fun of it.

Quote: GWAE

So you will get 20 each roll. But then you have to replace the horn and field when no field so on those rolls you only bring in 6. What about a 7, then you lose 130. So you need approx 11 rolls before you profit. You will burn through 1500 in under 45 minutes.

Having gone back and done the math I do believe that you are wrong, and here is why.

4 $10
5 $25
6 $30
8 $30
9 $10
10 $10
Feild $10
Horn $4

So let's say you roll a 5. You'll get $35 from the $25 place bet. So the math would be like this:

$35 - $10 = $25
$25 - $4 = $21

And let's say on the next roll you roll a 9. Here's the math for that:

$14 + $10 - $4 = $20

If you were to roll a 3 or 11

$12 (15 - 3 to replace the horn losses) + 10 = $22

And for the 2 and 12

$27 (30 - 3) + 10 = $37.

Hopefully this helps clear the math errors. With this, it would be no different then playing $17 inside and $ feild. Would still take 7 wins to pull a profit.

Also. What if I just left it on for 1-2 rolls and then turn them off and wait for a 7 out? I know the odds don't change in my favor.