2.) I will do the Math for you later if nobody else has gotten to it by then. I am quite confident that you are not the first person to ever hedge the Pass with the Field, so I am not in a hurry to sell my house to fund my bankroll, or anything. Here's a spoiler on the result:
Quote: Stoneyi've been successful recently with a simple craps betting method, and i'm here because i can't seem to find anywhere on the net that can tell me how to figure the odds to see if i'm good or lucky.
i just make equal bets pass line and field(come out only) and take full odds after the point. yes, there are a lot of break-even rolls with the 3 and 7, but the 2, 11(x2), 12(x2) are pure wins. and yes, the 5,6,8 are initial losses with a chance to break even, but the 4,9,10 are initial wins with a chance to double up. can anyone do the math for me on this?
I say you are just lucky.
Especially with the Field only paying 2X on 2 and 12.
Yuck. You can do better than that. Find tables that pay 3X for the 12.
For the math.
Looks like you just did.
Place probabilities next to each outcome, multipy each and add them all up.
I think the EV or house edge would be the easiest.
Since both bets do not resolve at the same time the variance would be the hard one.
Simulaion time.
You need to say how many odds you always take, how long you play, your starting bankroll, win goals and stop loss goals.
Not for me, for the computer.
as far as the math side goes, i can calculate the return on the field side + the 7 (which is positive.... i think). but i don't know how to calculate the return of the point numbers (4, 9,10 pay double and the 5,6,8 net 0) on a win vs loss (wich would be +0 and -2). and i take the 3-4-5x odds. and, how does this affect the return rate of the field bet.
just started playing this way vs various wagers based on my confidence in the shooter. yesterday, i started with $100 and was up $80 in less than an hour when my buddy went broke playing three card poker. and 2 weeks ago i started with $100 was up $225 in about 3 hours when my wife nagged me to leave.
so, for the computer, $500 to start, $1000 win goal, $0 stop loss.
with equal bets on field and pass line
number payout prob return
2 +1 2.78% 2.78%
12 +2 2.78% 2.78%
11 +2 5.56% 11.11%
4,10 +1 16.66% 16.66%
9 +1 11.11% 11.11%
3,7 +0 22.22% 0%
5,6,8 -1 38.89% -38.89%
totals 100% +8.33%
but this is just the first roll. if the point is 4 or 10 puts me ahead and a chance to increase or break even which should increase the return rate, but the 5,6,8 would bring it back down.... but by how much? and since odds bet lowers the house edge to near 0 i find it hard to believe it can overcome the 8.33%.... unless i screwed up or the net 0 on the 7 on thr pass line increases the houses edge by a whole lot.....
math breakdowns on this would be greatly appreciated.
Time to keep the wife happy this weekend.Quote: Stoneymath breakdowns on this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your data, maybe during tomorrow night baseball I run a sim for you for your bust rates.
Try the Wizards page
just change the HE for the field
https://wizardofodds.com/games/craps/appendix/2/
Quote: Stoneymath breakdowns on this would be greatly appreciated.
Just pretend that when a point comes up, rather than thinking "I've gained/lost on the field and now have a chance," consider yourself to have lost:
4, 10: 1/3 unit.
5, 9: 1/5 unit.
6, 8: 1/11 unit.
Because that's what the EV of your line bet now is.
Quote: Stoneythe field pays 3x on the twelve. i just stated that the win is x2 since i lost 1 on the pass line. and the 11 is a double win since i win both bets, but the 2 is only a 1x win since the pass line lost.
as far as the math side goes, i can calculate the return on the field side + the 7 (which is positive.... i think). but i don't know how to calculate the return of the point numbers (4, 9,10 pay double and the 5,6,8 net 0) on a win vs loss (wich would be +0 and -2). and i take the 3-4-5x odds. and, how does this affect the return rate of the field bet.
just started playing this way vs various wagers based on my confidence in the shooter. yesterday, i started with $100 and was up $80 in less than an hour when my buddy went broke playing three card poker. and 2 weeks ago i started with $100 was up $225 in about 3 hours when my wife nagged me to leave.
so, for the computer, $500 to start, $1000 win goal, $0 stop loss.
House edge from my sims and calculation is
-0.008773784
-415/47300 or
- 83/9460
Field on come out roll and pass with 345X odds.
Here are pics of my Excel worksheet
Just 345X odds
Just Field (This is a different way to calculate the edge on the Field. same results)
Pass Line with 345X odds Only. Bankroll and win goal probability.
2X = Double the starting Bankroll
3X = Triple the starting Bankroll
Bankroll Units: examples
$500 making average bets of $5 500/5 = 100 BR Units
$500 making average bets of $10 500/10 = 50 BR Units
from simulations
Bankroll units | Success 2X | 1 in | Avg # of games | Avg # of rolls | Success 3X | 1 in | Avg # of games | Avg # of rolls |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
6 | 44.98% | 2.22 | 4.00 | 13.50 | 29.00% | 3.45 | 6.74 | 22.75 |
7 | 46.73% | 2.14 | 5.54 | 18.70 | 30.51% | 3.28 | 8.72 | 29.44 |
8 | 42.94% | 2.33 | 7.39 | 24.95 | 29.72% | 3.36 | 10.73 | 36.22 |
9 | 42.99% | 2.33 | 8.00 | 27.01 | 30.09% | 3.32 | 11.92 | 40.24 |
10 | 43.72% | 2.29 | 8.40 | 28.36 | 30.49% | 3.28 | 13.08 | 44.15 |
20 | 46.67% | 2.14 | 21.51 | 72.61 | 31.30% | 3.19 | 38.74 | 130.78 |
30 | 47.26% | 2.12 | 43.05 | 145.33 | 31.36% | 3.19 | 80.54 | 271.88 |
40 | 47.41% | 2.11 | 72.86 | 245.96 | 31.24% | 3.20 | 138.90 | 468.89 |
50 | 47.59% | 2.10 | 111.04 | 374.84 | 30.85% | 3.24 | 212.89 | 718.67 |
60 | 47.35% | 2.11 | 157.19 | 530.64 | 30.71% | 3.26 | 303.96 | 1,026.10 |
70 | 47.12% | 2.12 | 211.79 | 714.95 | 30.31% | 3.30 | 408.50 | 1,379.00 |
80 | 46.99% | 2.13 | 273.88 | 924.55 | 30.01% | 3.33 | 531.18 | 1,793.13 |
90 | 46.76% | 2.14 | 346.41 | 1,169.40 | 29.70% | 3.37 | 670.03 | 2,261.86 |
100 | 46.53% | 2.15 | 424.60 | 1,433.35 | 29.42% | 3.40 | 821.69 | 2,773.83 |
200 | 44.11% | 2.27 | 1,666.90 | 5,627.05 | 25.81% | 3.87 | 3,153.87 | 10,646.70 |
300 | 41.29% | 2.42 | 3,699.11 | 12,487.30 | 22.78% | 4.39 | 6,883.01 | 23,235.37 |
400 | 38.65% | 2.59 | 6,570.74 | 22,181.23 | 19.87% | 5.03 | 11,799.25 | 39,831.41 |
500 | 35.50% | 2.82 | 10,060.74 | 33,962.62 | 17.24% | 5.80 | 17,917.69 | 60,485.78 |
Just Pass Line and taking NO Odds. Many Craps players still play this way thinking the odds do nothing because the EV does not change. They forget about the variance that makes it very possible to win more while risking the same Bankroll to a loss.
Using Gambler's Ruin Formula
https://wizardofvegas.com/forum/questions-and-answers/math/1360-chance-of-winning-10-units-before-losing-10-units-with-plain-bet-at-non-even-games/#post129741
Bankroll units | Success 2X | 1 in | Avg # of games | Avg # of rolls | Success 3X | 1 in | Avg # of games | Avg # of rolls |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 49.292929% | 2.03 | 1 | 3.38 | 0.323950789 | 3.09 | 1.99 | 6.72 |
2 | 48.586141% | 2.06 | 4.00 | 13.50 | 0.314664549 | 3.18 | 7.92 | 26.74 |
2.5 | 48.232942% | 2.07 | 6.25 | 21.09 | 0.3100598 | 3.23 | 12.34 | 41.67 |
3 | 47.879918% | 2.09 | 9.00 | 30.37 | 0.305481803 | 3.27 | 17.73 | 59.84 |
4 | 47.174542% | 2.12 | 15.98 | 53.96 | 0.29640948 | 3.37 | 31.33 | 105.77 |
5 | 46.470292% | 2.15 | 24.96 | 84.26 | 0.287454224 | 3.48 | 48.66 | 164.28 |
6 | 45.767446% | 2.18 | 35.92 | 121.24 | 0.27862237 | 3.59 | 69.64 | 235.09 |
7 | 45.066282% | 2.22 | 48.84 | 164.88 | 0.269919931 | 3.70 | 94.17 | 317.89 |
8 | 44.367071% | 2.25 | 63.73 | 215.15 | 0.261352577 | 3.83 | 122.16 | 412.39 |
9 | 43.670085% | 2.29 | 80.57 | 271.99 | 0.252925621 | 3.95 | 153.52 | 518.25 |
10 | 42.975590% | 2.33 | 99.35 | 335.37 | 0.244644005 | 4.09 | 188.15 | 635.14 |
20 | 36.223094% | 2.76 | 389.69 | 1,315.50 | 0.170630186 | 5.86 | 690.33 | 2,330.37 |
25 | 33.023600% | 3.03 | 600.24 | 2,026.25 | 0.14002702 | 7.14 | 1,025.21 | 3,460.87 |
30 | 29.973892% | 3.34 | 849.68 | 2,868.31 | 0.113710806 | 8.79 | 1,397.74 | 4,718.43 |
35 | 27.091899% | 3.69 | 1,133.95 | 3,827.94 | 0.091463058 | 10.93 | 1,795.89 | 6,062.48 |
40 | 24.390494% | 4.10 | 1,448.77 | 4,890.68 | 0.07294107 | 13.71 | 2,209.61 | 7,459.12 |
45 | 21.877624% | 4.57 | 1,789.79 | 6,041.89 | 0.057729835 | 17.32 | 2,631.03 | 8,881.72 |
50 | 19.556684% | 5.11 | 2,152.78 | 7,267.25 | 0.045386633 | 22.03 | 3,054.29 | 10,310.55 |
60 | 15.484665% | 6.46 | 2,928.87 | 9,887.16 | 0.027587888 | 36.25 | 3,891.70 | 13,137.44 |
70 | 12.132630% | 8.24 | 3,748.87 | 12,655.27 | 0.016476578 | 60.69 | 4,705.32 | 15,884.03 |
80 | 9.425302% | 10.61 | 4,590.74 | 15,497.22 | 0.009712809 | 102.96 | 5,492.30 | 18,540.68 |
90 | 7.272100% | 13.75 | 5,438.65 | 18,359.57 | 0.005670737 | 176.34 | 6,256.02 | 21,118.79 |
100 | 5.580489% | 17.92 | 6,282.19 | 21,207.14 | 0.003287401 | 304.19 | 7,001.69 | 23,636.00 |
200 | 0.348102% | 287.27 | 14,044.39 | 47,410.47 | 1.21597E-05 | 82,238.99 | 14,142.34 | 47,741.12 |
250 | 0.084851% | 1,178.53 | 17,648.57 | 59,577.30 | 7.20582E-07 | 1,387,766.96 | 17,678.53 | 59,678.44 |
300 | 0.020642% | 4,844.60 | 21,205.53 | 71,584.72 | 4.26161E-08 | 23,465,334.97 | 21,214.28 | 71,614.28 |
400 | 0.001220% | 81,952.72 | 28,285.02 | 95,483.38 | 1.48894E-10 | 6,716,165,867.67 | 28,285.71 | 95,485.71 |
500 | 0.000072% | 1,386,589.43 | 35,357.09 | 119,356.97 | 5.20121E-13 | 1,922,628,853,056.57 | 35,357.14 | 119,357.14 |
For your $500 buyin and $5 bets
(pass and come out roll Field) 345X Odds
trying to Double your starting Bankroll
avg # rolls: 1375
won: 41.65%
lost: 58.35%
For your $500 buyin and $10 bets 345X Odds
trying to Double your starting Bankroll
avg # rolls: 357
won: 44.34%
lost: 55.66%
Enjoy!
Assume you bet 1 on Pass and 1 on Field, if the Come Out is:
2: +1
3: 0
4: 1/3 of the time, it's +2; 2/3 of the time, it's 0, so that's 2/3 + 0 = 2/3
5: 2/5 of the time, it's 0; 3/5 of the time, it's -2, so that's 0 - 6/5 = -6/5
6: 5/11 of the time, it's 0; 6/11 of the time, it's -2, so that's 0 - 12/11 = -12/11
7: 0
8: same as 6 = -12/11
9: 2/5 of the time, it's +2; 3/5 of the time, it's 0, so that's 4/5 + 0 = 4/5
10: same as 4 = 2/3
11: +2
12: +2
The total EV (in terms of profit) is 1/36 + (1/12 x 2/3) - (1/9 x 6/5) - (5/36 x 12/11) - (5/36 x 12/11) + (1/9 x 4/5) + (1/12 x 2/3) + (1/18 x 2) + (1/36 x 2) = -0.041919, or -2.0959596% of your initial 2-unit bet.
Of course, the easy way to figure it out is, since the pass line and the field are two separate bets, calculate each EV separately, then add them and divide by the total bet.
and btw, the ones i've won the most off of are dice setters, myself included. i almost always lose on the 'shake and throw'.
Perhaps you should sue the "shake and throw" shooters for non-performance.
ev and variance are always additive for these type of questions and calculations.Quote: Stoneythank you for this. i didn't know how to figure the pass line edge post-point. and i didn't know if the edge on the 2 bets were cumulative or averaged, since they get resolved differently. but if i could pick up my pass line bet after the point, i'd have the advantage.... assuming my chart above is correct. looks like i've just hit those hot shooters.
and btw, the ones i've won the most off of are dice setters, myself included. i almost always lose on the 'shake and throw'.
Guido111 did a slick calculation taking the 345X odds into total consideration.
It still looks like you can hit your win goals, if that is what you really want most, more often over more sessions
by just getting rid of the Field bet.
But if you have more fun playing that way, Rock on!
Quote: 7crapsGuido111 did a slick calculation taking the 345X odds into total consideration.
If you assume 3/4/5 odds, here's what I get:
2 (1/36)
bet 2; -1 for pass, +2 for field = +1
Total bet = 2 x 1/36 = 1/18
EV = 1/36 x 1 = +1/36
3 (1/18)
bet 2: -1 for pass, +1 for field = 0
Total bet = 2 x 1/18 = 1/9
EV = 1/18 x 0 = 0
4 (1/12)
bet 1 for pass, 1 for field, 3 for odds = 5
1/3 of the time, win +1 for pass, +1 for field, +6 for odds = +8
2/3 of the time, win -1 for pass, +1 for field, -3 for odds = +3
Total bet = 5 x 1/12 = 5/12
EV = 1/12 x (1/3 x 8 - 2/3 x 3) = +1/8
5 (1/9)
bet 1 for pass, 1 for field, 4 for odds = 6
1/3 of the time, win +1 for pass, -1 for field, +6 for odds = +6
2/3 of the time, win -1 for pass, -1 for field, -4 for odds = -6
Total bet = 6 x 1/9 = 2/3
EV = 1/9 x (1/3 x 6 - 2/3 x 6) = -2/9
6 (5/36)
bet 1 for pass, 1 for field, 5 for odds = 7
5/11 of the time, win +1 for pass, -1 for field, +6 for odds = +6
6/11 of the time, win -1 for pass, -1 for field, -5 for odds = -7
Total bet = 7 x 5/36 = 35/36
EV = 5/36 x (5 x 6/11 - 6 x 7/11) = 12/11 x 5/36 = -5/33
7 (1/6)
bet 2: +1 for pass, -1 for field = 0
Total bet = 2 x 1/6 = 1/3
EV = 1/6 x 0 = 0
8 (5/36)
bet 1 for pass, 1 for field, 5 for odds = 7
5/11 of the time, win +1 for pass, -1 for field, +6 for odds = +6
6/11 of the time, win -1 for pass, -1 for field, -5 for odds = -7
Total bet = 7 x 5/36 = 35/36
EV = 5/36 x (5 x 6/11 - 6 x 7/11) = 12/11 x 5/36 = -5/33
9 (1/9)
bet 1 for pass, 1 for field, 4 for odds = 6
1/3 of the time, win +1 for pass, +1 for field, +6 for odds = +8
2/3 of the time, win -1 for pass, +1 for field, -4 for odds = -4
Total bet = 6 x 1/9 = 2/3
EV = 1/9 x (1/3 x 8 - 2/3 x 4) = 0
10 (1/12)
bet 1 for pass, 1 for field, 3 for odds = 5
1/3 of the time, win +1 for pass, +1 for field, +6 for odds = +8
2/3 of the time, win -1 for pass, +1 for field, -3 for odds = +3
Total bet = 5 x 1/12 = 5/12
EV = 1/12 x (1/3 x 8 - 2/3 x 3) = +1/8
11 (1/18)
bet 2: +1 for pass, +1 for field = +2
Total bet = 2 x 1/18 = 1/9
EV = 1/18 x 2 = +1/9
12 (1/36)
bet 2: -1 for pass, +3 for field = +2
Total bet = 2 x 1/36 = 1/18
EV = 1/36 x 2 = +1/18
Total bet = 43/9
EV sum = -8/99
Total EV = -8/473 = -1.6913%
The Wiz has an appendix for this, and it is the source of much controversy as many people get confused about craps edges as many bets push frequently on many outcomes of the dice.
The Field is a double-whammy and has the same edge per roll as the hardways all day at 2.78% (sometimes even twice as bad at Harrah's properties here in Vegas and now LVH and Cosmo).
IE: the field is a sucker bet.
The line is 0.42% per roll ($0.02 per roll on a $5 bet)
The field is 2.78% per roll ($0.14 per roll on a $5 bet)
So the long run, each time you have a field bet on a roll instead of just the line (odds don't matter) you're accelerating the rate of losses from 0.02 to 0.16. Basically you're going from 1x loss rate to 8x loss rate!!!
So many math problems in craps become simpler when you look at edge per roll instead of edge per event as each bet lasts a different amount of time, which tends to make those bets a better value proposition in terms of how long they last before you lose everything in general.
In general, you lose everything. If you expect to win, and try to win faster, in the short run, you can win faster with high edge bets. But in the long run, the long run goes away, so there's no point in talking about the long run.
What most people really want to know is "how do I figure out what the next roll is going to be."
But the math is so much easier to answer.
A five dollar line and a five dollar field loses at about the same rate as a $25 buy on the four and a $25 buy on the ten when commission is paid on the win.
You can win $49 at a time instead of being limited to only being able to get paid at most $15 on the field. It is less frequent that you get paid on the 4 and 10, but if you get paid and get out, you can win faster and with a lower edge by targeting fewer possible numbers.
Buying JUST the four or JUST the ten for $50 and not even throwing the dice also loses at the same rate at a $5 line and a $5 field (at most places that still round down), and you are betting on a less likely event that if you win, you will triple your money and you can go home. If you're gambling, getting in and out with a triple less a $2 commission on a 1.33% edge event is an awesome proposition.
But if you like passing the time with the most number of wagers possible, you're still better off gambling $25 on the four and $25 on the ten because you will get rated better for $50 on the table than $10 on the table, and then you can eat better.
Just my opinion.
The long run is still about how many bets are resolved and how much the average bet was.Quote: AhighIn general, you lose everything. If you expect to win, and try to win faster, in the short run, you can win faster with high edge bets. But in the long run, the long run goes away, so there's no point in talking about the long run.
It is still all about EV / SD
Calculating EV is really a first step in understanding gambling math for any player,
and is really a useless number by itself.
But most push HE and HE only as they are all under the impression that there is no variance to it.
Absolute bullshit I say. total SD / Total action gets you there.
HE does not tell one the chances of ending up a winner or a loser after N bets are made... and never can.
This is what players want to know about, not just the next roll or bet.
Play 4 hours, make these bets and what are my chances of ending up?
I hear this all the time when playing because I ask many why they play a certain way.
Most think they win over 75-80% of the time in extended sessions.
I guess they only believe what they want to until they keep playing and hit the negative variance.
I also did the variance for the OP betting method but it is a bit advanced I think for him to understand and use unless he asks.
And it is the variance (standard deviation) that makes it all possible to win in the short and long runs, EV/SD
and his 345X odds does just that.
2.78% (1/36)HE on Field
1.41% (7/495) HE on Pass Line
0% HE on Odds, and most of his money IS on the odds.
No one can go wrong there if making more than a few hundred lifetime bets.
My calculations and simulations for OP betting style both show a combined HE of about -.88%.
-0.008773784
- 83/9460 exactly
and my sim program rounded that to -.88%
That mostly comes from the odds bet.
Looks like my server pics come and go.
The results from my simulations on hitting win goals does show that the Field bet is keeping the winning sessions at a lower probability.
That is because the Field is acting as a hedge bet and all hedges lower the variance.
That is not good if you are risking a fixed amount of bankroll and want to hit a win goal.
The standard deviation needs to go up, not down, to increase a session win goal.
But many have different reasons to play craps,
but in the end I say all still want to play many hours and still walk away a winner.
This is not the most common result unless one knows more times than not what the next roll is going to be.
Enjoy!
That's what I say. Pay to play and have fun.
If you want to have a chance at winning, I think you should be advised to minimize the number of large bets to have a better chance.
The Wizard has his scheme of how to double your money.
I say I would rather have an exactly 50/50 chance to win like this:
$5000 buy on the 4
$5000 buy on the 10
Hit a seven? Lost! Go home.
Hit a 4 or a 10? Win, bring it down.
Chance to win: 50/50
Cost to get paid: 5% of $5000 = $250.
Total haul: $10,000 - $250 - dealer tips
250/20000 = 1.25% edge for the event. Better than all on the pass. Better edge than all on the don't. Better chance of winning and easier to understand a 50/50 chance and easier to understand your cost to take your pay when it's an explicit vig.
How much lower edge and/or better chance can you get than that for having exactly a 50/50 chance to win as close to twice what you risk to win? Put the simulator and all your might behind it, and let me know.
Being shy of ten g's for that last little extra chance to win is worth it to me. Not that I would lay the four for ten grand and settle for less than 5 grand, but I'm just saying, it's cheap to play if you just want to play, and it's expensive to get paid big money if you just look at the raw costs of big play, it's expensive compared to what other things you could do with that money.
This was precisely one of the areas where I think a couple of people blew a gasket saying I had the wrong math, so please correct me on anything I'm doing wrong here.
But as far as the details of the simulator for the OP, I'm not sure they are sophisticated enough to understand all that crap.
Even if the experts have a hard time with my math, most newcomers understand you have exactly a 50/50 chance to win, and the house keeps $250 when they pay you $10,000 .. so it's really $9,750.
It's possible you guys get so technical that you forget that there are people who just want to win without talking about complicated stuff.
Quote: buzzpaffI will be at the WOV G2E luncheon. Care to share a diet coke ?
I am just making a point that if you play big, the edge matters. That's when you want fewer events and lower edges.
It still makes sense to bet this way until you're trying to win less than $50 IMO. Especially if you want to focus on things not so complicated as how to figure out the right amount of lay odds and what-not like the Wizard's strategy, or give up the extra $30 in vig to do a similar bet putting it all on the line or the don't.
Quote: buzzpaffBet 5 with 100 odds seems better ?
It's a better edge, but you don't win as often. If you were trying to win double your money, you should bet less than all your money with the goal of winning your initial starting cash when you win the odds. And if you lose, you are sort of wondering if maybe you should have given yourself more of a chance or should you try to make a longshot with what you got left on a higher edge bet?
You would have a slightly reduced chance of winning more than you started with. Which is awesome. But I think a lot of people inexperienced with the game begin to expect to win based on the fact that they won a couple times in a row, then they keep putting their money out there until they don't win any more and one roll and they are done.
Effectively, for most players, the house has a built-in sort of house-loss-chase-system because each time the player manages not to lose their money on a roll, the house is expecting to take more bets and more bets on the premise that a seven is around the corner. This same system induces less frequent and bigger wins. But most people get chewed up and spit out quick by following the typical advice of maxxing out odds and getting overexposed.
The first time I played craps and asked the dealers for help after toking them a couple bucks, they told me how to play, but they told me to make come bets and I won and I was up, and it all disappeared real quick too.
I think they had some quip at the end about knowing when to quit.
My point is this though: the novice craps player can be taught how to bet craps almost like it were baccarat, except with a 1.25% edge per bet resolved instead of 1.24% per player bet in Baccarat.
And the same as Baccarat, you pretty much have to bet $50 to get such a good deal (1.00% edge like the banker bet when you bet $50 or $100), but the edge is nice and the chance of winning is simple to understand.
Quote: Ahigh250/20000 = 1.25% edge for the event. Better than all on the pass. Better edge than all on the don't.
...
please correct me on anything I'm doing wrong here.
Your denominator is incorrectly inflated. You shouldn't include the action for the unresolved bets.
50% of the time you win 9750 on action of 5000, and 50% of the time you lose 10000 on action of 10000. EV = (0.5*9750 - 0.5*10000) / (0.5*5000 + 0.5*10000) = -125/7500 = -1.667%.
This is the best way to hijack a thread. This is how threads get way out of whack and become useless posts and way too difficult to read and follow.Quote: AhighIf you just want to play the game, play minimum bets and enjoy it knowing you're going to lose.
That's what I say. Pay to play and have fun.
If you want to have a chance at winning, I think you should be advised to minimize the number of large bets to have a better chance.
The Wizard has his scheme of how to double your money.
I say I would rather have an exactly 50/50 chance to win like this:
$5000 buy on the 4
$5000 buy on the 10
Hit a seven? Lost! Go home.
Hit a 4 or a 10? Win, bring it down.
Chance to win: 50/50
Cost to get paid: 5% of $5000 = $250.
Total haul: $10,000 - $250 - dealer tips
250/20000 = 1.25% edge for the event. Better than all on the pass. Better edge than all on the don't. Better chance of winning and easier to understand a 50/50 chance and easier to understand your cost to take your pay when it's an explicit vig.
How much lower edge and/or better chance can you get than that for having exactly a 50/50 chance to win as close to twice what you risk to win? Put the simulator and all your might behind it, and let me know.
Being shy of ten g's for that last little extra chance to win is worth it to me. Not that I would lay the four for ten grand and settle for less than 5 grand, but I'm just saying, it's cheap to play if you just want to play, and it's expensive to get paid big money if you just look at the raw costs of big play, it's expensive compared to what other things you could do with that money.
This was precisely one of the areas where I think a couple of people blew a gasket saying I had the wrong math, so please correct me on anything I'm doing wrong here.
But as far as the details of the simulator for the OP, I'm not sure they are sophisticated enough to understand all that crap.
Even if the experts have a hard time with my math, most newcomers understand you have exactly a 50/50 chance to win, and the house keeps $250 when they pay you $10,000 .. so it's really $9,750.
It's possible you guys get so technical that you forget that there are people who just want to win without talking about complicated stuff.
All your above words have nothing to do with the OPs original questions.
Start by moving this to a new thread and then I will destroy (nicely) some of your conclusions.
Here is one to start
You take $10,000 make two buy bets.
Risking $10,000 to win $4750.
Your probability to hit a $4750 win is exactly 50%
All on the Pass or Don't is still way better with NO Odds bet.
It is called Bold Play. Mathematically proven.
IF I have the same bankroll Risking $10,000 to win $4750 and I lose the first time, I am still in the game,
you lose the first time you are done.
For the Pass I have a [1] 66.86613% chance of success to hit my $4750.
Bold Play, most times, kicks ass to win the most the fastest.
added:
[1] 0.6571952 chance of winning exactly $5000. Better than your score
[1] 0.5621962 chance of winning exactly $7500. Again, Better than your score
This can be calculated exactly in Excel or using the below R code for the first 1000 terms
> br = 10000 # Starting Bankroll
> goal = 14750 # Target bankroll
> odds = 1 # Payoff Odds
> p = 244/495 # P(win bet)
>
> prob = 0
> p_fail = 1
> count = 0
>
> while ( (br >= 1) & (br < goal) & (count < 1000) ) {
+
+ # Compute probabity of completing parlay up
+
+ consec = 0
+ while (br + br*odds <= goal) {
+ br = br + br*odds
+ consec = consec + 1
+ }
+
+ p_parlay = p^consec
+
+ # Compute probabilty of reaching goal
+
+ bets = 0
+ if (br < goal) {
+ while ( br >= ceiling((goal-br)/odds) ) {
+ br = br - ceiling((goal-br)/odds)
+ bets = bets + 1
+ }
+ }
+
+ p_goal = ifelse(bets, 1-(1-p)^bets, 1)
+
+ delta = p_fail*p_parlay*p_goal
+ prob = prob + delta
+ p_fail = p_fail*p_parlay*(1-p)^bets
+ count = count + 1
+ }
>
> prob # Probability of reaching goal
[1] 0.6686613
> delta
[1] 0
> count
[1] 1000
>
I can add to a hijacked thread just as easy as the next can
added: I see ME stepped in to correct you on your house edge calculations.
I doubt it will do any good.
Quote: Ahigh
250/20000 = 1.25% edge for the event. Better than all on the pass. Better edge than all on the don't.
...
please correct me on anything I'm doing wrong here.
My money is with ME and not with AHigh.Quote: MathExtremistYour denominator is incorrectly inflated. You shouldn't include the action for the unresolved bets.
50% of the time you win 9750 on action of 5000, and 50% of the time you lose 10000 on action of 10000. EV = (0.5*9750 - 0.5*10000) / (0.5*5000 + 0.5*10000) = -125/7500 = -1.667%.
My simulations also show the 1.67% HE to be correct.
Quote: guido111This is the best way to hijack a thread. This is how threads get way out of whack and become useless posts and way too difficult to read and follow.
All your above words have nothing to do with the OPs original questions.
Start by moving this to a new thread and then I will destroy (nicely) some of your conclusions.
Here is one to start
You take $10,000 make two buy bets.
Risking $10,000 to win $4750.
Your probability to hit a $4750 win is exactly 50%
$9750 not $4750.
I know about bold play.
1.25% is better than 1.41% and better than 1.36%
The end. Sorry about your being wrong. I don't know what you're talking about ME correcting me, but this is very simple math.
Quote: AhighI say I would rather have an exactly 50/50 chance to win like this:
$5000 buy on the 4
$5000 buy on the 10
Hit a seven? Lost! Go home.
Hit a 4 or a 10? Win, bring it down.
Chance to win: 50/50
Cost to get paid: 5% of $5000 = $250.
Total haul: $10,000 - $250 - dealer tips
250/20000 = 1.25% edge for the event.
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you have to pay the 5% up front when you buy a number (i.e. you're betting $5250 against the casino's $10,000 when you buy a 4 or 10)? In that case, here's what I get:
Buy the 4 and 10 for $5000 each, plus $250 commission on each number; total bet is $10,500
1/2 of the time, 4 or 10 comes up before 7; result = +10,000
1/2 of the time, 7 comes up before 4 or 10; result = -10,500
EV = (1/2 x (+10,000) + 1/2 x (-10,500)) / 10,500 = -250 / 10,500 = -2.38%.
Am I missing something?
Hey Mission 146.Quote: clacamHi everyone, I am a new member and I have a probobilities question.
Can anyone help me to write the formula to calculate on a 37 numbers roulette wheel
the correct odds of the expected repetitions of numbers at any time between spins 10 and 37.
ie: at spin 17 there should be 4.22 repetitions.
I consider a second repetition a number that has come up three times.
I thank you for your help.
Would you assist this new member in placing his Roulette question in a new thread instead of one that has already been hijacked?
Thanks
Quote: ThatDonGuySomebody correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you have to pay the 5% up front when you buy a number (i.e. you're betting $5250 against the casino's $10,000 when you buy a 4 or 10)? In that case, here's what I get:
Buy the 4 and 10 for $5000 each, plus $250 commission on each number; total bet is $10,500
1/2 of the time, 4 or 10 comes up before 7; result = +10,000
1/2 of the time, 7 comes up before 4 or 10; result = -10,500
EV = (1/2 x (+10,000) + 1/2 x (-10,500)) / 10,500 = -250 / 10,500 = -2.38%.
Am I missing something?
You are correct that the lower edge depends on 5% commission on the win. Every casino that I know of in Vegas does buy bets this way, but I do understand that many other casinos don't. The Riviera charged commissions up front when they went to 1000x odds, for example. When I asked them about it, they said it was because they had to make money somehow.
But in general, here in Vegas (this is wizardofvegas.com) the commission is on the win. I apologize if anyone else was led astray to thinking that this works with commission up front. It's a horrible deal with commission up front to do this.
Quote: MathExtremistYour denominator is incorrectly inflated. You shouldn't include the action for the unresolved bets.
50% of the time you win 9750 on action of 5000, and 50% of the time you lose 10000 on action of 10000. EV = (0.5*9750 - 0.5*10000) / (0.5*5000 + 0.5*10000) = -125/7500 = -1.667%.
The action is $10,000 the way that I constructed the bet. The reason why is that I intend to take both bets down on resolution of any of the 12 possible resolving rolls and be done.
So you cannot count it as two bets as the average number of rolls for the combination is 3 not 4.
Since guido thinks the 1.25% number is incorrect for a bet that waits for one of a 4, 10, or a seven to be rolled in order to resolve, please let me know if you agree on my assertion here that I have a 3 roll bet that I created from two independent bets on the felt, fully intending to only let one of the two bets resolve unless a seven is rolled in order to reduce the average number of rolls from 4 to 3.
I think a whole lot of people are confused about this in part due to the fact that nobody considers a bet that isn't marked on the felt as a legitimate bet.
You can actually get and/or make/create bets that aren't on the felt. It is in fact possible. Anyone who disagrees, please feel free to construct your argument.
I have seen many players successfully create their own bets using combinations of bets that are absolutely brilliant. So I hope everyone agrees that it's possible to do as I have witnessed people doing some very intelligent things this way. If you guys don't think it's possible, I suppose it is one way to live in a world where you can't do that. But I firmly believe that you can do it.
Man, where is the $5000 Buy 4 and Buy 10 that only pays $4750 on a win?Quote: guido111
You take $10,000 make two buy bets.
Risking $10,000 to win $4750.
Your probability to hit a $4750 win is exactly 50%
All on the Pass or Don't is still way better with NO Odds bet.
It is called Bold Play. Mathematically proven.
IF I have the same bankroll Risking $10,000 to win $4750 and I lose the first time, I am still in the game,
you lose the first time you are done.
For the Pass I have a [1] 66.86613% chance of success to hit my $4750.
Bold Play, most times, kicks ass to win the most the fastest.
added:
[1] 0.6571952 chance of winning exactly $5000. Better than your score
[1] 0.5621962 chance of winning exactly $7500. Again, Better than your score
added: I see ME stepped in to correct you on your house edge calculations.
I doubt it will do any good.
Stay away from that table!
I guess you know where your mistake is?
Bold play, $10,000 to win $9750
pass: 0.4987689
Dpass: 0.4988305
Not that much less than AHigh's 2 bet wager.
added:
To be FAIR, the best chance to double a $10,000 bankroll is with the Dpass,
followed very closely by the Pass by betting it all, a one time shot.
0.49298
0.49292
The Buy bet method by AHigh, falls short trying to double.
0.4856167
But, can the average craps player even know the difference after 100 such bets??
Don't think so, IMO
YesQuote: ThatDonGuySomebody correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you have to pay the 5% up front when you buy a number (i.e. you're betting $5250 against the casino's $10,000 when you buy a 4 or 10)? In that case, here's what I get:
Buy the 4 and 10 for $5000 each, plus $250 commission on each number; total bet is $10,500
1/2 of the time, 4 or 10 comes up before 7; result = +10,000
1/2 of the time, 7 comes up before 4 or 10; result = -10,500
EV = (1/2 x (+10,000) + 1/2 x (-10,500)) / 10,500 = -250 / 10,500 = -2.38%.
Am I missing something?
The example given is a Buy bet that pays the 5% vig on a win only.
This is very common in many casinos.
Quote: 7crapsMan, where is the $5000 Buy 4 and Buy 10 that only pays $4750 on a win?
Stay away from that table!
I guess you know where your mistake is?
Bold play, $10,000 to win $9750
pass: 0.4987689
Dpass: 0.4988305
Not that much less than AHigh's 2 bet wager.
It is a pretty negligible difference, but I appreciate your accepting of the legitimacy of buying both the 4 and the 10 and taking them both down as a legitimate and effective bold play.
There is a lot of time spent splitting hairs on this forum, and I understand that this is the way things are being so math centric. But I absolutely respect your acknowledging the math here.
Thanks.
Quote: AhighYou are correct that the lower edge depends on 5% commission on the win. Every casino that I know of in Vegas does buy bets this way, but I do understand that many other casinos don't. The Riviera charged commissions up front when they went to 1000x odds, for example. When I asked them about it, they said it was because they had to make money somehow.
But in general, here in Vegas (this is wizardofvegas.com) the commission is on the win. I apologize if anyone else was led astray to thinking that this works with commission up front. It's a horrible deal with commission up front to do this.
I'm a little confused as to what "commission on the win" means.
Suppose I buy the 10 for $100, and I win - what profit do I make? $195 (200 minus 5% of the bet), or $190 (200 minus 5% of the 200 that I won)?
If it's 5% of the bet, then, if I buy just the 10 for $100:
1/3 of the time, I win $195 (200 minus 5% of the 100)
2/3 of the time, I lose $100
EV = (1/3 x (+195) + 2/3 x (-100)) / 100 = (-5/3) / 100 = 1.6667%
And if I buy the 4 and 10 for $100 each:
1/2 of the time, I win $195 (200 minus 5% of the 100, with the other number being taken down)
1/2 of the time, I lose $200
EV = (1/2 x (+195) + 1/2 x (-200)) / 200 = (-5/2) / 200 = 1.25%
Since you'd lose the whole 200 on a 7, you're "betting 200" each time.
(If it's 5% of the amount won, this becomes 2.5% - but then, they might as well be asking for the 5% up front.)
Something tells me I'm still missing something...
Quote: ThatDonGuyI'm a little confused as to what "commission on the win" means.
Suppose I buy the 10 for $100, and I win - what profit do I make? $195 (200 minus 5% of the bet), or $190 (200 minus 5% of the 200 that I won)?
If it's 5% of the bet, then, if I buy just the 10 for $100:
1/3 of the time, I win $195 (200 minus 5% of the 100)
2/3 of the time, I lose $100
EV = (1/3 x (+195) + 2/3 x (-100)) / 100 = (-5/3) / 100 = 1.6667%
And if I buy the 4 and 10 for $100 each:
1/2 of the time, I win $195 (200 minus 5% of the 100, with the other number being taken down)
1/2 of the time, I lose $200
EV = (1/2 x (+195) + 1/2 x (-200)) / 200 = (-5/2) / 200 = 1.25%
Since you'd lose the whole 200 on a 7, you're "betting 200" each time.
(If it's 5% of the amount won, this becomes 2.5% - but then, they might as well be asking for the 5% up front.)
Something tells me I'm still missing something...
The 1.667% is correct for 5% commission on the win. It's 5% commission of the bet amount. If you buy a lay, it's 5% of the win amount. Both cases are 5% of the smaller of the two amounts (win vs bet).
It looks like you've done everything properly.
The only other thing is that the casino rounds DOWN from $1.25 vig to $1.00 changing what would be a 5% commission to a 4% commission, making it possible to further reduce the edge on the newly created 3-roll bet to 1.00% from 1.25%. That generally only happens for $25 each. But some casinos only charge $2 vig for $50 buy's on each, letting you win $98.
Quote: AhighThe action is $10,000 the way that I constructed the bet. The reason why is that I intend to take both bets down on resolution of any of the 12 possible resolving rolls and be done.
Except you don't do that -- you keep betting, as demonstrated by the charts for your progression system that you posted in another thread. In the final analysis, you are still expected to lose 1.67% of the total amount you wager on every resolved buy 4 wager, plus 1.67% of the total amount you wager on every resolved buy 10. If you inflate the denominator by considering the 4 bet resolved when a 10 rolls, or vice versa, then of course your computed edge will drop. But I don't think that's a valuable statistic; in fact, I think it's misleading, and therefore, less valuable than other, more typical ways of looking at the bet. Quoting the combined edge as 1.25%, without any further information, would imply that a single person who makes both $100 bets simultaneously would somehow have a lower expected loss than the total loss of two different players making $100 bets independently. Of course that's not true: the expected loss from the combination is exactly the same as the sum of the loss from each component.
Quote: MathExtremistExcept you don't do that -- you keep betting, as demonstrated by the charts for your progression system that you posted in another thread. In the final analysis, you are still expected to lose 1.67% of the total amount you wager on every resolved buy 4 wager, plus 1.67% of the total amount you wager on every resolved buy 10. If you inflate the denominator by considering the 4 bet resolved when a 10 rolls, or vice versa, then of course your computed edge will drop. But I don't think that's a valuable statistic; in fact, I think it's misleading, and therefore, less valuable than other, more typical ways of looking at the bet. Quoting the combined edge as 1.25%, without any further information, would imply that a single person who makes both $100 bets simultaneously would somehow have a lower expected loss than the total loss of two different players making $100 bets independently. Of course that's not true: the expected loss from the combination is exactly the same as the sum of the loss from each component.
I think I see MathExtremist's point.
Suppose there was a bet that was always a push. If you buy the 10 for $100 and then bet $9900 on the "always a push" bet, 1/3 of the time you win 195, and 2/3 of the time you lose 100, for an EV of -5/30,000, or -0.016667%. In fact, there is such a bet; it's called "keeping $9900 off the table."
Then again, suppose there was a bet that paid 0.975-1 (equivalent to 1.95-1 on half the bet and a push on the other half) if a 4 or 10 was rolled before a 7; on a $200 bet, 1/2 of the time you would win $195, and 1/2 of the time you would lose $200, for an EV of -5/4000, or -1.25%. How is this different from Ahigh's bet?
Something tells me it comes down to a question of whether or not you include pushes in EV - and I seem to recall there being a rather heated debate about this in mathematical/statistical circles.
Quote: MathExtremistExcept you don't do that -- you keep betting, as demonstrated by the charts for your progression system that you posted in another thread. In the final analysis, you are still expected to lose 1.67% of the total amount you wager on every resolved buy 4 wager, plus 1.67% of the total amount you wager on every resolved buy 10. If you inflate the denominator by considering the 4 bet resolved when a 10 rolls, or vice versa, then of course your computed edge will drop. But I don't think that's a valuable statistic; in fact, I think it's misleading, and therefore, less valuable than other, more typical ways of looking at the bet. Quoting the combined edge as 1.25%, without any further information, would imply that a single person who makes both $100 bets simultaneously would somehow have a lower expected loss than the total loss of two different players making $100 bets independently. Of course that's not true: the expected loss from the combination is exactly the same as the sum of the loss from each component.
You can't mix a betting system with my claim for a bold play on the 4 and 10. They are two different conversations.
If you place the 5, you could decompose that bet into two bets: one for the four-one before a seven, and another one for the two-three before the seven. Each of those two bets has an edge of 5% when considered as in $2.50 pays $7.00 and $0.50 / ( $2.50 + $7.50 ) = 5%. Are you saying that when I place the 5, the edge is higher than 4% also because when I use a betting scheme I keep putting the bet back up and pressing it? There is absolutely no difference in the two arguments except that the bets are on the felt .. making the combined bets 4% and the 5% bet non-existent.
I'm sorry, ME. As much as your name would imply you are better at math than I am, you can't have the place bet on the 5 and 9 be 4% and argue that a combined 4 or 10 before a seven is 1.67%. The only possible argument is that the felt markings make the math correct. And I absolutely refuse to believe that because they choose not to print a bet for the 4 or the 10 before a seven that the bet does not exist or that the bet is unattainable, because it is.
For any of you who continue to have difficulties with understanding combining bets together to get new bets, there are a whole class of real-world applications of doing similar such things.
Complex option trades are such things: you effectively combine two bets together to come up with a more desirable characteristic gain for various movements of the underlying stock symbol. Especially when you want to limit losses or risk, complex options are critical to making intelligent investment decisions without incurring too much risk. And if you understand how to do these things, you execute two trades simultaneously reducing the overall commission. There are not a ton of similarities between playing craps and trading options and/or stocks, but there are some. It might be helpful to broaden your horizons and consider complex options trading as it applies to these concepts if you are still struggling with comprehension on this topic.
http://www.investopedia.com/university/optionspreadstrategies/
Quote: ThatDonGuyI think I see MathExtremist's point.
Suppose there was a bet that was always a push. If you buy the 10 for $100 and then bet $9900 on the "always a push" bet, 1/3 of the time you win 195, and 2/3 of the time you lose 100, for an EV of -5/30,000, or -0.016667%. In fact, there is such a bet; it's called "keeping $9900 off the table."
Then again, suppose there was a bet that paid 0.975-1 (equivalent to 1.95-1 on half the bet and a push on the other half) if a 4 or 10 was rolled before a 7; on a $200 bet, 1/2 of the time you would win $195, and 1/2 of the time you would lose $200, for an EV of -5/4000, or -1.25%. How is this different from Ahigh's bet?
Something tells me it comes down to a question of whether or not you include pushes in EV - and I seem to recall there being a rather heated debate about this in mathematical/statistical circles.
Without getting into the details of what is right or wrong about what you're suggesting (such as one is a bet and one is not), decomposing the place bet on the 5 into two bets is a better way to analyze my argument.
The place bet on the 5 is composed of two legs, and the two legs it is composed of are not offered independently.
However, unless or until someone says that the place bet on the 5 or on 9 nine has a 5% edge, I refuse to accept that a buy bet on the 4 or 10 (whichever occurs first) has an edge at 1.67% for $200 rather than 1.25% (with commission on the win, etc).
You simply cannot have it both ways. Only one way can make any sense.
There is theory, and there is practice. The argument you provide above about a bet that is always a push is highly theoretical. But if you make the analogy towards other accepted place bets and edges, there is nothing theoretical about what I am saying. It is common and accepted that the place bet on the 5 or 9 is 4% not 5% therefore a buy bet on the 3-1, 2-2, 6-4, 5-5 before a 4-3, 5-2, 6-1 has an edge of 1.25% not 1.67%. They are directly analogous.
The edge per roll is generally 0.33% to 0.42%. Why not just leave it at that and leave the multiply by the number of rolls for another topic?
Threads such as this one where otherwise competent math people argue about how to do the math when you can't agree what the average number of rolls are or whether it's a valid bet or not are really good evidence for why all craps bets should only be talked about in terms of edge per roll. Period. The end.
This is a all a colossal waste of valuable time.
Edge per roll
$25 buy on the 4/10 with commission on the win 0.33333%
$25 place bet on 5/9 1.11111%
$24 place bet on 6/8 0.46296%
The best edge per roll BY FAR is the $25 buy. If you buy BOTH of them, you are more likely to win if you only want to win once and leave.
This is very VERY simple math. Lower edges are good! Winning more often is GOOD. Betting all the low edge bets until you don't have any more is a good idea if you want to increase your chance of winning without increasing the edge per roll. That's why buying both the 4 and the 10 is good, you're more likely to win and the percentage of your play that is taken from the edge is as low as it can be by betting here instead of the passline or the dont passline assuming you don't want to do the more complex math of making free odds bets and so on.
Agree. It is all about the accounting method used.Quote: ThatDonGuySomething tells me it comes down to a question of whether or not you include pushes in EV - and I seem to recall there being a rather heated debate about this in mathematical/statistical circles.
It can get confusing when a wager does not resolve on every roll. Now we have a per bet and per roll value.
But those that choose to say it is 1.25% for the example given
per bet
FAIL always to mention it is 1.25% counting pushes.
It is done on purpose,IMO, to show a lower HE, can be misleading as ME called it-
because most live and die by HE and say no one needs EV. No one needs variance, only HE. The lower the better.
HE expressed in % and EV in $s
2 buy bets for $100 each 4,10
A fast 1 million trial sim.
#wins 333,386 $65,010,270
action counting pushes $66,677,200
#loss 666,614 -$66,661,400
action (no pushes here, both bets lost at the same time) $66,661,400
actual net: -$1,651,130
handle (including pushes) 133,338,600 * 1.25% = 1,666,732.5 the EV
sim HE: -1.2382986%
#wins 333,386 $65,010,270
action NOT counting pushes $33,338,600
#loss 666,614 -$66,661,400
action (no pushes here, both bets lost at the same time) $66,661,400
actual net: -$1,651,130
handle (NOT including pushes) 100,000,000 * 1.667% = 1,666,666 the EV
sim HE: -1.65113%
Both HE values arrive at the same EV (I rounded)
Because the total handle is calculated differently.
My claim and IMO, those that push HE only want to confuse.
HE, EV, Variance and standard deviation matters... together in these type of bets.
Don't believe me?
Don't believe me.
How about the Field bet that pays triple on the 12. a -1/36 edge (2.7778%)
Place 5 or 9 has 4% HE.
Therefore, Field bet IS the better bet because of the lower HE.
Screw the EV and the number of bets resolved per hour.
There are those that push HE and HE only.
Many also just want to push per roll values and get rid of the per bet values.
This is for simple accounting only.
If one makes exactly 30 bets, we know exactly how many bets were made.
If one wants to bet for only 60 rolls, and really who plays this way???
now the number of bets becomes a variable and the math is even more confusing to many.
HE needs to be shown per bet (both including pushes if any) and per roll, both, to arrive at the EV.
IF we all throw away EV, then HE only matters.
Why do so many fear EV?
If there were a bet that resolved every roll and had a 0.30% edge per roll, it might make the game a lot more fun! But your point is well taken about the pushes driving the edge down in a sort of artificial way.
Some people with less background might consider a die-down event to be a push on every bet. But no math person would say that you should factor that into the house edge. It works the same way though.
But your idea of just using the HE per roll for all bets plays into the Enron Accounting tricks book.Quote: AhighAnd one last final thing, and I will repeat this again, all of this is simply confusion, and nothing else. If you turn everything into edge per roll, all of this becomes way less confusing.
And is never always the proper way to calculate and compare EV to different bets.
WinCraps Help section has a very good comparison on these matters.
under Expected Value (the program is free to have and use)
IMO, no one should comment on house edge/expected value matters until they read the information in WinCraps.
"Earlier, when comparing bets, we discovered that there are times when it's not enough to express EV as a loss per roll. Because bet amounts can vary, we sometimes need to express EV as a loss per dollar wagered.
Now we know that there are also times when it's not enough to express EV as a loss per dollar wagered because amounts wagered can resolve at different rates. "
What IS the better bet?
$5 Field
or
$5 Place 5
HE says Field... but wait!
ALL Place bettors laugh and point their fingers, sometimes just one finger,
at every field bettor.
They always call the field bet a sucker bet, compared to their place 5 and place 9 bets,
even when it pays 3X on the 12.
Field 3X payout on either 2 or 12
-1/36 or 2.78%HE per roll and per decision
Place 5 has a 4% HE per decision.
EV per decision
$5 Field: -0.138888889
$5 Place5: -0.20
Case closed right? Wait! cries the Place bettors.
Place5 bettors, now will use Enron Accounting to show that the PLace5 bet IS actually better than the Field by using the per roll HE for the Place5.
Only fair, they say, since the Field bet is really just a per roll value also.
So, .04/3.6 = 0.011111111
The HE per roll for the Place5.
EV per roll = $5*1.11% = -0.055555556
Way lower than the Field bet per roll.
Put all your money on the Place5 instead of the Field and you will win more because you lose less.
This is Enron Accounting at it's best.
Now this looks like a closed case.
We just compared, and it is a fair comparison, the per roll EV for Field and Place5 and we see the Place5 dominates.
If one would look at, say 30 resolved bets, we can see what value to use for a true comparison.
The only true way to compare different bets, is by total action! Equal total action!
Place5 bettors will never use the per decision value in their calculations,
as it now shows their bet to be a worse bet, than the field bet.
Is the case finally closed?
Well, we only looked at the HE and EV for both bets. How about the variance?
Does the Place5 actually have a better chance of coming out ahead after the same total action of bets made
compared to a Field bet?
The math is left to the reader.
calculate the ev and standard deviation for each bet.
The Wizard has shown how to do this or just look at his house edge page.
per $1 bet
EV/SD
Field: ev -0.027777778/1.142 (sd) = -0.024323798
Place5: ev - 0.04/1.176 (sd) = -0.034013605
Per$5 just multiply the ev and sd by $5.
One will see the ratio is exactly the same.
The value closer to "0" is the better bet
But is it really?
Still, IMO,
ALL place bettors that place the 5&9 still say the Field bet is a sucker bet and the Place5 and 9 bets are not sucker bets,
proving one only believes what he wants to believe and disregards the rest.
Back to Craps,
The very next roll will either be a Field roll or a 5,6,7,8
Just predict better than expectation the very next roll and
you can easily have +EV over many rolls.
DIs just do it the opposite way. They roll some numbers more than others to get their +EV.
Same results
Summary. One needs to compare apples to apples
"Earlier, when comparing bets, we discovered that there are times when it's not enough to express EV as a loss per roll.
Because bet amounts can vary, we sometimes need to express EV as a loss per dollar wagered.
Now we know that there are also times when it's not enough to express EV as a loss per dollar wagered because amounts wagered can resolve at different rates. "
added:
https://wizardofodds.com/games/craps/
"If your reason for knowing the house edge is
a measure of how good of a bet it is
and/or
the value at generating comps, then you should go by the "per roll" figure."
The Wizard continues..
"In all forms of gambling I try to teach the player to make the best bets.
In my opinion, the best bets in craps are those with a low "per roll" house edge."
I just showed how this statement is not correct as does the WinCraps expected value examples.
When comparing per decision and per roll, one can easily make mistakes when it comes to EV and when comparing total action between different bets.
I then must disagree with the Wizard's all encompassing statement.
Ahhh, the sounds of silence
Quote: 7crapsBut your idea of just using the HE per roll for all bets plays into the Enron Accounting tricks book.
And is never always the proper way to calculate and compare EV to different bets.....
Excellent post 7craps! For me, one of your best posts ever.
Your comparison of the field to the Place 5 bet, using HE, then edge per roll, and total bet action finally helped me understand this a bit more. A working example I could easily relate to.
I still can't explain it, but now I have this post to refer back to, and with the other reference links you have provided, I have some studying to do.
As far as having a concept of how likely you are to win, I still believe that charts are much easier to understand for people with math skills below 7 craps. Even experienced math people can indeed infer much more information visually than by scalar numbers representing concepts that are relatively vague to all but the most seasoned statisticians and combinatorial mathematicians.
If you look at plots of strategies involving field bets and place bets including the 5 and 9 for tens of thousands of rolls, the slope is steeper and the occurrences of big wins are fewer than strategies with higher pay and lower edges like the 4 and the 10.
But many of the truths revealed by mathematics are in the domain of the very long term. And many, even seasoned veteran, players are more subject to luck than long term math characteristics based on the fact that big plays are made far less frequently than smaller minimum bet plays.
Just yesterday, someone use a martingale in the field as I proceeded to throw 8 non-fielding numbers in a row. After adding it up, they lost over $715 .. their last bet being $400 instead of $320.
The last non-fielding number there was no $800 or higher bet even though the table limit was $1000. I wasn't concerned about his fields and I was rolling 6's and 8's.
They had a friend there and he was explaining to the friend that the chances of that happening were rare. Even at 50/50 chance of winning, it happens every 256th time. But with a 44.4% chance of winning like the field, it happens ten times as often at 1 in 25. So a 5.55% reduction in the likelihood of the event happening makes the losing streak TEN TIMES AS LIKELY.
And this is SIMPLE math. But here is my point about arguments about these things, 7 craps being an offender in my book and yet to redeem himself.
Just coming up with a bunch of complicated math results and believing to one's self that you are right because you understand things that most people don't understand is not doing yourself any favors. Neither by using the results of that complicated math to benefit from playing the game nor by having a better life as the result of being an unpleasant person to tell other players how stupid they are.
And even if 7 craps were right about the ongoing argument where he takes the position that I was wrong when I wasn't wrong about being able to get a 1.00% edge by betting two green chips on a couple of buy bets, he still has a great propensity towards arguments rather than helping people out and working hard to do that.
I appreciate the comments that 7 craps has made on this particular topic. And it is a step in the right direction from my view. But in the context of correcting my thought that if we talked about things in a more normalized domain, there would be fewer arguments, he has failed to persuade me that we would argue less if we talked more in the domain of edge per roll than edge per event when he is in fact the person unwilling or unable to consider an event where you roll a 4 or 10 before a seven as a bet.
If I had quickly come up and told the guy yesterday that you will see 8 non-fielding numbers in a row every 25 rolls, he probably wouldn't have believed me, and I could have used that to make him look stupid and call him all kinds of names and tell him to take his sorry pathetic ass somewhere else instead of the craps table. But if I had done that, it wouldn't have made my life any better.
This is a lesson that 7 craps needs to learn, because even though this is a great post from him, I am still pretty unhappy about how he treated me, and as he demonstrated recently, how he continues to treat other newcomers to this forum.
Read the section on Variance in WinCraps. There is way more there.Quote: RaleighCrapsExcellent post 7craps! For me, one of your best posts ever.
Your comparison of the field to the Place 5 bet, using HE, then edge per roll, and total bet action finally helped me understand this a bit more. A working example I could easily relate to.
I still can't explain it, but now I have this post to refer back to, and with the other reference links you have provided, I have some studying to do.
"Expected Value
Expected value (EV) represents the theoretical average outcome of a wager. It's calculated by summing all possible outcomes each weighted by their probability of occurring. When negated and expressed as a percentage of the amount wagered it becomes the house advantage and establishes a baseline from which to evaluate and compare bets. It's actually a very handy figure and allows us to answer an important question: Which bets give the best average return per dollar wagered? To learn how to calculate the expected value, see Calculating the House Advantage / Expected Value.
If all bets had the same probabilities of winning and losing, it would be a simple matter to compare their payoffs to decide which on average returned more to the bettor.
By the same token, if they all had the same payoffs then it would be a simple matter to compare their probabilities. Unfortunately, they don't all resolve at the same time or pay at the same rate, so we use expected value to reconcile the differences.
However, even this seemingly simple average can be misunderstood and misused. It's important to understand that expected value can be expressed in different ways and what those expressions mean.
Since the roll is the veritable heart beat of craps and wagers are tendered in some form of currency such as dollars, it would seem natural to express the EV as a dollar amount gained or lost per roll.
Although there's nothing wrong with doing so, if we intend to compare different bets it can be misleading.
For instance, a $5 Place 5 bet loses an average of 5.56 cents per roll whereas a $10 Place 5 bet loses an average of 11.1 cents per roll. Therefore the $5 bet is better, right?
Well, if better means losing fewer dollars per roll then, yes, but does this, "bet less - lose less" lesson come as any revelation to you? What we really need to know is proportionally how effective each bet is at returning our money.
In other words, how much does each bet lose per dollar wagered. If we divide each of these results by the amount wagered, we see that both the $5 and $10 Place 5 bets lose 1.11% per roll (that's $0.056/$5 and $0.111/$10 respectively).
Ok, now it makes more sense - since both bets are on Place 5 they're naturally, equally effective. So now the EV is in a form that accounts for the difference in bet amounts, but what about the difference in probabilities?
Certainly the probability of winning and losing each wager is accounted for when you compute the average loss, but what about the probability of even having a win or loss?
Have we accounted for those times when some bets don't resolve?
In other words, what about the action? An illustration is in order:"
Download WinCraps, it is free and so is the Help file.
yes, action * edge is just part of the total formula.
Most just stop there...
You will never have more than a 50% chance of winning long run, so why play?
No one can ever win in the long run
No one.
Exactly what the formula says. just by itself.
HE and EV.
Variance is useless because no one can ever win in the long run or even over a typical lifetime of play.
See, sounds depressing.
prove these HE/EV pushers wrong. but just to yourself.
It only matters to you.
The HE/EV pushers will always say everyone else is wrong and just believe them.
Hey, unless you can be killed for believing what you want, go for it.
Entertainment has it's personal value.
Some love watching paint dry.
Quote: AHighJust coming up with a bunch of complicated math results and believing to one's self that you are right because you understand things that most people don't understand is not doing yourself any favors. Neither by using the results of that complicated math to benefit from playing the game nor by having a better life as the result of being an unpleasant person to tell other players how stupid they are.
I would advise you that you are seriously toeing the Line here pursuant to the Statler and Waldorf standard. Blanket statements made about the pleasantness (or lack thereof) of a person based on that person's posts will not be tolerated. I am going to let you off with a Warning this time, but please make sure not to make such statements that tend towards the character of a person in the future. Were you to state that, in your opinion, 7Craps posts are unpleasant, I would have no problem with that, though neither affirm nor deny such a statement.
This will be your only Warning on this matter, and further blanket statements made as to an individual's character or personality of this nature will result in a Suspension. If you wish to belabor this point, I insist that you do so via PM or by creating a post in the Rules Forum. I have no intention of further discussing this matter in this thread.