This strategy seems to work well for me, but there are also many occasions when I get the 3 come bets loaded up, and the shooter then sevens out.
I'm formerly a classic regression player, and sometimes even the Iron Cross, but too many times have been wiped out from quick seven-outs.
Quote: wrxrobMy recent strategy that seems to work (as long as the table is hot)...
Doesn't pretty much any strategy work if the table's hot (other than darkside strategies)? lol
Quote: wrxrobMy recent strategy that seems to work (as long as the table is hot)
there is no such thing as a hot table. the table could have made 10 point numbers in a row -- the odds are the same for the next roll as they always are.
Quote: wrxrobMy recent strategy that seems to work (as long as the table is hot) is to place all inside numbers for the minimum (preferably $5), then do a Come bet, until 3 points are established. I use the place bet money and win as odds for the come bet. Example, place the 6 for $6. Six is rolled, come travels to the six. Place bet wins $7, then I go $10 odds and keep the $3 "change"
This strategy seems to work well for me, but there are also many occasions when I get the 3 come bets loaded up, and the shooter then sevens out.
I'm formerly a classic regression player, and sometimes even the Iron Cross, but too many times have been wiped out from quick seven-outs.
I am a "die hard" Place/Come/Down w/max odds player and I agree with you on your betting style. i posted in another forum about a strategy I use. You may want to consider changing to placing 96 across with a 5/come and down with max odds. If you choose double odds, its better just to place the numbers and press.
I also like your idea on regressing. Example play 160 across and then regress to 32 across after 1 win put 163 in your rack and press/parley the 32 across.
I learned to accept the Point-7 outs because it happens to all of us. Just the other day I was playing a full table 14 shooters, 5 of the 14 hit a Point 7, another 7 shooters rolled two and three numbers and "poof" 7-out. but just 2 shooter out of the 14 got them dice and refuse to roll the 7 making everyone money back and then some. This type of play happens almost on a normal basis.
I notice in my game 2k is a pretty average win goal, and 300 is a good loss goal. A good recommendation is to have enough in your bankroll to cover 3 times what your average betting layout. "3 strikes you're out"
If I play 160 across each shooter, then my buyin will be $500.
Quote: CrapsGeniousI am a "die hard" Place/Come/Down w/max odds player and I agree with you on your betting style. i posted in another forum about a strategy I use. You may want to consider changing to placing 96 across with a 5/come and down with max odds. If you choose double odds, its better just to place the numbers and press.
I also like your idea on regressing. Example play 160 acros and then regress to 32 across after 1 win put 163 in your rack and press/parley the 32 across.
I'm curious how you bet that $160 across. $30 6&8, and ?
Quote: RaleighCrapsI'm curious how you bet that $160 across. $30 6&8, and ?
25/4, 25/5, 30/6 ,30/8, 25/9 ,25/10
If you choose to regress after 1 win,
take all bets down to 32 across
5,5,6,8,9,10 press/parley your winnings.
Quote: CrapsGenious25/4, 25/5, 30/6 ,30/8, 25/9 ,25/10
If you choose to regress after 1 win,
take all bets down to 32 across
5,5,6,8,9,10 press/parley your winnings.
Are you buying the 4/10 ?
Quote: RaleighCrapsAre you buying the 4/10 ?
Yes, sorry I should mention the 2.00 for the buy 4/10
thank you sir for that correction.
Quote: wrxrobMy recent strategy that seems to work (as long as the table is hot) is to place all inside numbers for the minimum (preferably $5), then do a Come bet, until 3 points are established. I use the place bet money and win as odds for the come bet. Example, place the 6 for $6. Six is rolled, come travels to the six. Place bet wins $7, then I go $10 odds and keep the $3 "change"
This strategy seems to work well for me, but there are also many occasions when I get the 3 come bets loaded up, and the shooter then sevens out.
I'm formerly a classic regression player, and sometimes even the Iron Cross, but too many times have been wiped out from quick seven-outs.
I sorta do the same thing about winnings from Buy/place #'s to be the odds.
$10min 3/4/5x e-Craps, pass/continuous come w/max odds:
1) Buy the 4/10 for $15. If it hits, winnings become the odds.
2) Move the $15 to the 6. If it hits, winnings ($17.5) pay for 1/3 of the $50 odds.
3) then Move the $15 to the 8.
4) After the 8 hits, Move the $15 to Buy the 5. If it hits, winnings (21.75) pays for 1/2 the $40 odds.
5) And then finally move the $15 to Buy the 9.
so there will be 2 Buy/Place #s for $15 each at all times.
I prefer Buying the 4/10 over Placing the 6/8 at the start because i think the much bigger payout is worth the slight increase of HE (1.7% vs 1.5%).
I do the 5/9 last because even Buying the 5/9, the HE is 2%.
I do continuous Come because the come bet is a slight hedge against the 7.
lets say all the bases are loaded ($10 4,5,6,8,9,10 with max odds)= $300.
You get 3% back if the 7 hits. ($10/300 = 3%)
If you are going to play craps, you can enjoy a (relatively) slow game by doing pass line with max odds or don't pass with max odds, perhaps 1 come or don't-come bet with max odds, nothing more. Tip the dealers $1 every now and then (preferably on the pass or don't-pass, since you'll stick out more to them if "dealers are on the line"). They'll enjoy dealing to you and you'll have a better time overall, assuming you're not the a****** who puts in late bets, forgets to pick up winnings, etc.
You can also play a "go big or go home" strategy. You can bet $10 on the 5 & 9, when it hits, drop $1 and "go to a quarter ($25)". AND/OR you can put $18 on the 6 & 8, and press to $30 when either hit. Once you have green action on the table, press a little every roll, or do a collect, press, collect, press, etc. More often than not you're going to end up losing, since you're hoping for a long roll (preferably where ONE of your numbers is hit many times).
The third way, which is actually very boring, is to cross-bet with a friend. One plays on the pass line with max odds while the other plays on the don't-pass with max odds. The point isn't to win (you can only break-even or lose with this strategy, actually, unless you get pay-off errors)...but it's to get comps and free stuff at a cheap price. You only lose when a 12 is rolled on the come out roll, in which case only the pass line player loses his bet and the don't-pass pushes. If you're each playing $10 on the line, after 36 come out rolls, you are expected to only lose $10 (1 way to roll a 12, and in every other 35 rolls your combined action will push). By doing this, you aren't decreasing the house edge, you are simply decreasing variance (variance is when you are on a "hot" table and win a lot of money or a "cold" table when you lose a lot of money).
In the end, you're expected to lose AmountWagered x HouseEdge
That is always the problem. A point can be established and then immediately the shooter Sevens Out. No one on the Pass Line ever complains when a shooter establishes a point and then immediately makes that point, but to Seven Out so promptly is disappointing.Quote: wrxrobThis strategy seems to work well for me, but there are also many occasions when I get the 3 come bets loaded up, and the shooter then sevens out.
We all know that in an average shift a craps crew will see alot. Some of it will be endless PSO. Point SevenOut. Some however will be a short run, a medium run and some even a long run for their money.
Betting all the numbers across means you are either hoping the shooter holds those dice for a real long time or you enjoy overworking the crew taking down and putting up bets for you all night long.
If its going to be long rolls ... yeah just about anything that involves Place Bets, Come Bets and Pressing and Odds will be good.
As long as you are in the game and aggressively pressing everything in sight then when these monster rolls occur you will be riding the crest of the wave.