How do you keep your Blackjack log (diary)?

While my BJ journey is very fresh, I wanted to log the events for each buy-in session before I forget what happened. The tiny triangles represent the comps I got when I requested them from the PB: $30 the first time, and $15 the second time; they were all for meals, which we enjoyed very much. On the $300 buy-in, that was for 3 separate buy-ins, not a one-time buy-in. I always keep $50 in my pocket for emergency double-downs.

Is there some other element I should track, like how much in tips I give the dealer?

I'd track all tips. The year I started doing that, I realized how foolish I was being. I forget the numbers now, but in a 28 day stay, between valet, drink servers and dealers I gave away a large percentage of my winnings.

Quote: billryan

I'd track all tips.

Bill, thanks for your tips (no pun intended!). This is also a good time to thank you again for reminding me to divide my trip bankroll into buy-in sessions, depending on how often I planned to play!

Almost any suggestion I pass along was given me by someone else, so just keep the chain going.

Quote: billryan

Almost any suggestion I pass along was given me by someone else, so just keep the chain going.

I am happy to inherit "the legacy". There are at least another dozen other folks like yourself: Romes, OnceDear, RS, AxelWolf, Mamat, AyCarumba, bobbartop, OdiousGambit, BBB, and more . . . One day, a newbie (even newer than myself) will make a posting with questions, and I'll be armed with lots of ammunition (tips from folks like you) to share with him/her.

I don't do this (anymore) because I'm a lazy POS, but track your EV as well as SD. Then you can make a pretty little graph that includes your actual results, EV, +/- 1 SD, and +/- 2 SD. Do you have CVCX? I'll see if I can find one of my old logs and I can email it to you. It's set up in a way so you can enter in different types of games (decks, pen, ramp, EV, SD, etc.). But you have to do all that manually. But then when you enter in a new session, you just pick which game you played (one day might be DD 65% pen, 1-6 spread with a $35/hr EV and $250 SD/hr, and another game might be DD 75% pen, 1-10 spread, $50/hr EV, $350 SD/hr). Then you enter how long you played or estimate number of hands, and it computes your EV and SD.

Quote: billryan

I'd track all tips. The year I started doing that, I realized how foolish I was being. I forget the numbers now, but in a 28 day stay, between valet, drink servers and dealers I gave away a large percentage of my winnings.

I probably tip $4K-8K/yr. Tips & gas $2K-3K/yr are two of my highest costs.

Casino game staff tips, Room tips, Food service tips, Hotel staff tips.
I don't mind because their salaries are too low, and tips are part of it. (Some restaurant owners tried a "no tip" system in the US. They all reversed course. Unable to increase salaries high enough to compensate for loss of tips, and staff left).

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Sometimes tips are part of the overall strategy.

Some bingo pros tip 20% of wins (which ends up being 50% of net wins).
They do it because of the unusual nature of bingo, which means that staff has many ways of increasing their edge (legally, not like tipping in BJ for mis-pays).

I track (1) fun - stuff spent on <100% games (2) travel time (3) gas and other expenses (4) session time (5) est. number of hands (6) conditions - friendly dealer's names, unfriendly staff, etc....

Keep a log???

The whole table is pissed off with my slow addition.
The dealer is pissed off even if he is getting tipped generously.
I know that Aces and Eights are special but can't remember if I'm supposed to yell Yatzee or what.
Surveillance personnel are rolling on the floor with laughter after watching me count on my fingers.

And now you tell me I am supposed to be keeping a log!

Quote: RS

Do you have CVCX? I'll see if I can find one of my old logs and I can email it to you. It's set up in a way so you can enter in different types of games (decks, pen, ramp, EV, SD, etc.).

No, I don't have CVCX; I understand the basic definition of SD (normal distribution, bell curve), but I wouldn't know how to actually calculate it. A handful of WoV folks have also suggested I invest in "the software". That would be stellar if you could find an old log and send it to me. I'm only in my 5th yr of retirement, and life can be surprisingly busy with things you don't realize. All of a sudden, there's time to do those repairs & maintenence you couldn't do when you were both working, etc. But I'm also showered with multiple "break times", which I use to enjoy the WoV forum, and do things like make a blackjack log.


But yes! I only recently learned how to calculate my EV playing Blackjack, and look at me! I've overlooked logging it in. In fact the EV for my last bout of BJ described was only $2.50/hr, which I had posted elsewhere that I knew it was underfunded. I played anyway, as this was my first time to actually card-count - it was worth it, and I actually won a little, even though the EV was low. Lady Variance stayed with me long enough to give me my first taste of card-counting (even if the first 2 shuffles were head-to-head, and the last shuffle we were 3 players).

Quote: mamat

(6) conditions - friendly dealer's names, unfriendly staff, etc....

Thanks, mamat! It's satisfying to know that I, too, track conditions (these are in a hidden cell). FWIW, conditions are a critical element for me because of my respiratory issues - MSS is a gem because of what seems to be higher ceilings and maybe better HVAC than the Cal (or fewer people/less smokers). . . the MSS layout is appealing because the restrooms don't require my calling Uber or Lyft to get there . . . so far, I've only encountered friendlies in the PB, dealers, cocktail waitresses, and even slot attendants. I remembered to jot down some names as well! And BTW, thank you again for your many and varied posts - I enjoy them all the time, even when the subject is something I know little about - you have a way of engaging into the conversation very intimately and knowledgeably without sounding like some of the know-it-alls on the WoV forum. Kudos!

Quote: FleaStiff

And now you tell me I am supposed to be keeping a log!

You are too funny. On my very first seating at a blackjack table last Oct 2016, I somehow ended up with 5 cards in my hand. For the life of me I froze and could not add them up. The dealer saw me sweating bullets (but didn't see me almost wet my pants), and said "Let me help you, hon, you look like you're struggling . . . "

Good thing it was a hand that added up to 21 and not a bust, so the embarrassment subsided a bit . . .

Quote: RS

. . . but track your EV as well as SD. . .

I understand the EV of $2.50/hr is embarrassingly low, and that my buy-in of $100 is underfunded for a spread of 1-5 ($5 to $25). However, I knowingly proceeded with these conditions so that I could have my first opportunity at card-counting. The first buy-in was a disaster (nervous, plus extremely annoying seat mate to my right); the second buy-in was a very pleasant and successful head-to-head experience of 2 shuffles, followed by a modest winning 3rd shuffle with 2 other players. I was able to maintain card-count all 3 shuffles.

I am now in the process of developing my strategy for a 3rd trip to be better balanced for bankroll amount, spread, and betting strategy.

Of course, I'll still welcome any constructive criticism from the more experienced players. I still plan to return to the MSS tables, and then I can play DB or JoB for quads & scratchers in between playing blackjack. On this 3rd trip, I hope to at least try one shoe game or 6-deck blackjack. I called the MSS, talked to a Pit Boss, and was assured that the rules for 6-deck are
3:2 payout | min $5/max $500 | dealer hits on S17 | no SURR, no DAS, no RSA, and split non-Ace pairs a maximum of 4 times

EV definitely needs to be on there =P. Also, when you were still learning BS, you still have an EV you can figure out... Estimate your number of hands, average bet, and the house edge of the game (which you know) and you'll have a negative EV for those sessions playing basic strategy.

I believe we use: Date, Location, Comps/Coupons, Hours Played, Hands Played, EV, AV (actual value), Yearly Total.

Don't think I missed one or two, but might have. Tips are something that could be an interesting stat to keep track of that we probably should be doing but haven't been. I was astounded when I realized at the end of the year how much we got in "comps" per year... =). There is real value there, especially since some places we had so much we just bought really expensive things from the gift shop and sold them online.

Quote: Romes

Also, when you were still learning BS, you still have an EV you can figure out.

Ahhh, you've read my mind again. I believe you might have already explained this particular EV calculation, but I can't find my notes (pages and pages and pages - I'm a SPONGE!).

Good that you posted your thoughts, as I know have an even more interesting response back that I am still drafting . . . HINT: it will have NUMBERS!

Hint: EV is EV, whether positive or negative, it's what's simply expected. When you are counting you have an "average advantage" which is a positive number (1-2% generally). When you're not counting, this is simply the negative house edge. Otherwise, the calculation is exactly the same. EV = (NumHands*AvgBet)*(Advantage), where advantage can be positive or negative pending the play (counting vs basic strategy).

Quote: LostWages

I understand the EV of $2.50/hr is embarrassingly low, and that my buy-in of $100 is underfunded for a spread of 1-5 ($5 to $25).

Don't be embarrassed about playing small.

The art of "Bootstrapping", whether in business or gambling...is the art of turning $1 into $1 million in steps.
Learning how to turn $100 -> $200 -> $400 -> $1,000 is a valuable skill.

Usually $5 at a 1-5 spread is within +/- $75 for an hour of play, so the $100 buy-in works.
At nervous places like El Cortez, I might even buy-in $20 at a time... Makes the top bet look like an "all-in".

It's fun to play "all-in" BJ, and just bring out more money from your wallet when you lose.

Best I could do on $20 was run up to $1,100 & cash out at $950. (47.5x).

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Another tactic is to buy in $1,000, but only play $100. That way if you win $50, it doesn't look like you're winning a lot relative to your stack.

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Buy in for weird amounts - $65, $240, etc...

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Lots and lots of tactics to try. Good luck.

Quote: mamat

Lots and lots of tactics to try. Good luck.

Hey there, mamat! Thanks for always giving me positive encouragement saddled with a variety of tips to try out. Hope to reciprocate one day, in one way or another. I'm busy working out my next strategy for an improved BR/ramp on my 3rd trip (probably not till end of 2017 or early 2018). Cheers!

Quote: LostWages

No, I don't have CVCX; I understand the basic definition of SD (normal distribution, bell curve), but I wouldn't know how to actually calculate it. A handful of WoV folks have also suggested I invest in "the software". That would be stellar if you could find an old log and send it to me. I'm only in my 5th yr of retirement, and life can be surprisingly busy with things you don't realize. All of a sudden, there's time to do those repairs & maintenence you couldn't do when you were both working, etc. But I'm also showered with multiple "break times", which I use to enjoy the WoV forum, and do things like make a blackjack log.


But yes! I only recently learned how to calculate my EV playing Blackjack, and look at me! I've overlooked logging it in. In fact the EV for my last bout of BJ described was only $2.50/hr, which I had posted elsewhere that I knew it was underfunded. I played anyway, as this was my first time to actually card-count - it was worth it, and I actually won a little, even though the EV was low. Lady Variance stayed with me long enough to give me my first taste of card-counting (even if the first 2 shuffles were head-to-head, and the last shuffle we were 3 players).

PM me an email I can send the spreadsheet to. It's sorta complicated so I'll attach a 'readme' to follow in how it works, what to change, what not to touch, etc. Just remember anything in the sim_data tab, it's in UNITS, not DOLLARS.