$5 on Pass, then 15/20/25 (depending on the point) odds.
I don't worry about money management so much as I do anger management if I take a beating.
player made $10 PL bet, and $100 DP bet.
He would then put $100 odds on the point.
Seven Out, he would lose $10
Point made, he would get $10 (PL)+ the odds payout less $100 (his losing DP bet).
I would love to know if he gets rated for $110 action ($10 PL + $100 DP)
He doesn't like large swings (hence Pai Gow). His 'system' is
On Come Out roll, $82 No FOUR
$35 DP
Once point is set, pull down the No Four, and bet $12 6 and 8, and $10 Place 5.
On first hit, Place the 9 for $10.
He then does take/press cycles.
Works okay as long as there aren't many Come Out 11s, or 4 being set as the point.
1. Wait for a point of 5/6/7
2. Back the point with 1Xs odds
3. Two units on the remaining 5/6/8
4. One unit on the field
If they make 6 shots without the 7 it is a winner. Use some of the odds from the 5/6/8 for prop bets or the crew if you like.
Showed a guy this once and he gave me $20 tip. So it can make money! lol
Quote: AZDuffmanIf I think it will be a hot shooter:
1. Wait for a point of 5/6/7
2. Back the point with 1Xs odds
3. Two units on the remaining 5/6/8
4. One unit on the field
If they make 6 shots without the 7 it is a winner. Use some of the odds from the 5/6/8 for prop bets or the crew if you like.
Showed a guy this once and he gave me $20 tip. So it can make money! lol
You're using a modified iron cross. That system "won't" make money, but its a fun system to play on a 2x2 and 3x12 layout at the "low roller" level to kill time. Keep in mind though, if you're doing a $5/$6 5-6-8 with $5 field, regardless of your PL/Odds placement, you're going to need to roll nearly 10-11 times to make money every roll, assuming the replacement of the field after every 5/6/8, and assuming you don't press. That's asking for quite a bit. In all honesty, for only a few bucks more, you could place the 4,5,6,8,10, plus a field bet to cover the 9, and replace the place bets with your PL bet with odds and you'd have quite a bit more "bang" for your buck there.
Imagine, as an example, that the point is a 4.
In your system, you've got a $5 PL, with $5 odds backed up, with a 5,6,8 for $17 inside no-nine, and a $5 field, for a total of $32
You could have the 5,6,8,10(or 4 depending on point) placed for $22, $5+$5 and a $5 field for a total of $37 dollars.
Now if that 4/10 (depending on point situation) rolls you'll make 14 ($9 place win +$5 field win)
Keeping in mind, though, you have a 16/36 shot at making more than $2 with every roll, but a 20/36 shot at making $2 or less.
Since 6 of those 36 are 7's (bad) that leaves a possible 30 combinations. The 6/8 account for 10 of them, leaving 20 left, and the 5 accounts for 4 of them, leaving 16. So there's 14/36 shot of you making $2, 6/36 shot of you losing your entire bet, and a 16/36 shot at making $5-$14.
Try dedicating yourself to 2-3 rolls/hits then get out.
Now we got us a craps thread goin on, Exoter being the last poster before the latest. This should get to be fun. Funny.Quote: rushdlIron Cro$$ is fun :)
Try dedicating yourself to 2-3 rolls/hits then get out.
Parlay twice
Yo 18x parlay
This, except I chicken out with the full odds part and usually do like 3x. When I play with friends who are "pass line players" I'll switch to pass/come with odds.Quote: WizardFlat bet the don't pass/don't come on every roll with full odds.
One of my favorite systems to play money bet, and haven't pulled the trigger live yet, is to bet a ton lol. Basically it's the following:
1) Bet $10 on the pass line.
2) When point is established bet $75 on the DC.
3) After any other number is thrown continuously bet the come/odds after that.
When the shooter 7's out usually you still make a little money because of the DC. You get killed when your DC gets picked off a couple times, but you only have 1 DC up ever at a time, so it "feels" at least like it rarely gets picked off. Every other number thrown makes you money except 2, 3, and 12.
No idea if this has a name, I got it off a rando youtube video. Casinos must love it because at any given roll you have like $600 on the felt, yet you're never wide open to lose it all on 1 roll. The biggest loss you can get is getting that DC picked off THEN a 7 out. So it at least takes 2 rolls to completely wipe you... and if you get any kind of a hot shooter you're just raking in the come bets.
Buy in for $200.
Wait for new shooter because obviously, no system can work mid roll.
$3 PL $1 Horn
on a 7 repeat the bet
on a 2,3,11,12 $3 PL, double the horn, because huge horn bets are fun when they hit!
any box number -GAMBOOL! $150 across, $6 odds on PL, $3 come, $1 horn
on a 7 hope the cocktail waitress is close with that beer... sulk off to VP bar and brainstorm about why this didn't work(buy in, machine selection/dice control).
any box number - collect your $30-45 and go to $18 across with continuousish $3 comes/full odds while playing for the horn parlayish hit.
work all your bets up from there never allowing TITO to fall below amount you had on the come out roll. Wait for HOT SHOOTER!! cash out wealthy!
Location is key to this system. I prefer the machines close to a cocktail station. But only if the dice are very controllable! ;)
Quote: AmelieI always use 3,4,5 odds system and it hasn't led me to failure yet.
You win every time playing your 3/4/5 odds system? Sounds like you've figured out the game. Congrats.
ZCore13
One of my favorite systems to play money bet, and haven't pulled the trigger live yet, is to bet a ton lol. Basically it's the following:
1) Bet $10 on the pass line.
2) When point is established bet $75 on the DC.
3) After any other number is thrown continuously bet the come/odds after that.
When the shooter 7's out usually you still make a little money because of the DC. You get killed when your DC gets picked off a couple times, but you only have 1 DC up ever at a time, so it "feels" at least like it rarely gets picked off. Every other number thrown makes you money except 2, 3, and 12.
No idea if this has a name, I got it off a rando youtube video. Casinos must love it because at any given roll you have like $600 on the felt, yet you're never wide open to lose it all on 1 roll. The biggest loss you can get is getting that DC picked off THEN a 7 out. So it at least takes 2 rolls to completely wipe you... and if you get any kind of a hot shooter you're just raking in the come bets.
OK! Here is my first foray into the world of forums:):) AND, I am new to craps. But, I am a math geek. Let's say you are the shooter, you have the whole table set up to your liking as described above - with your pass line bet of say $10, , all the "open" numbers have say a $10 place bet on them (open numbers are those that do not have either the puck or the DC on it), you have you $75 on the table somewhere, and you have a nice $10 come bet waiting to go to the next allowable number rolled. Yes, if you now 7 out under these circumstances, your bank roll does go up . What I'm trying to figure out is "Why is that?" You put few or full odds everywhere it is allowed, and as long as your DC number does not come up, as long as you throw number after number (4/5/6/8/9/10), you keep making money. That is easy to understand but (1) .......You are DONE when the 7 comes up BUT (2), as indicated above, you make even more money. Been trying to figure that out. The use of the DC makes the "7" a much less scary number since it is often "replaced" by a less scary number like the 4 for example.
My oh my, I hope my comments make sense. If you are scratching your head trying to make heads or tails of my words, please forgive? :):) BTW All of this "wisdom" comes from two videos on the internet. I found them via a search of "online craps" and then going to "videos of online craps". I hope also that I have followed forum rules with this posting.
Quote: worldhistoryguy
My oh my, I hope my comments make sense.
you are quoting someone and then adding something? not clear
anyway, if you are a math star, where is the analysis of outcomes that are weighted by probability??
Would it not be better to just continuously play the DON'T COME bet, and place the same number?
(you still win a couple dollars if the place bet comes and if seven out you get all your DC bets back).
Quote: LaymedownI hear a lot about the IRON CROSS betting the field, 5, 6, 8 and making only a couple of $1.00 chips profit.
Would it not be better to just continuously play the DON'T COME bet, and place the same number?
(you still win a couple dollars if the place bet comes and if seven out you get all your DC bets back).
I've actually played that a few times. It's flawless except for those pesky 7's and 11's that hit on your opening come bet all to often. That sort of throws a monkey wrench into it's perfection.
Hot rolls subsidize losses. Of course, set up and seven out sucks. But the key is to up your units when it's called for. If you get scared and don't, you won't take advantage of the hot rolls when they rarely appear.
Quote: rushdlIron Cro$$ is fun :)
Try dedicating yourself to 2-3 rolls/hits then get out.
You're on the right track.
Lets say Im starting with 1000.
Put 350 on dont come. Partially protect come out roll with 20 Yo.
After point is established (lets say its a 5), I then go 320 across. (50 on 4,5,9,10 and 60 on 6,8).
After 2 boxes thrown (say 6 then 4) I press the point after each number. So the 5 is now pressed up to 120 after the first roll (6), then to 220 after the second roll (10).
Now I am in a no lose situation and I will let it ride and go for the long roll. If a 7 comes next, I will basically break even (win 350 on dont pass , and lose initial 320 across plus 20 yo). Conversely, If the 5 is rolled next, I will win 308 on the 5, plus I already won 170 from prior 2 rolls (6 and 4) .. totaling 478 , but will lose the dont pass 350 and 20 yo... so it will be a win of around 108.. minus the juice on the 4.
The object of this routine is being in the position to hit the long roll at minimal risk and avoiding any fear of the 7. The only time the 7 needs to be feared is on the come out , which is definitely a risk. Alternatively, the only other way to lose is if the point is made back to back or within 2 rolls. I rarely see this happen.
However, the best way to play, imho, is to hit n run.
Quote: WatchMeWinHowever, the best way to play, imho, is to hit n run.
Given that belief, why do you often plan "to stay on a table for a long time?"
Quote: MrVGiven that belief, why do you often plan "to stay on a table for a long time?"
You didn't read correctly.
My question is still valid, and points out the inherent inconsistency in your post.
If the best way to play is hit and run, why would you ever play otherwise?
If you're with friends one would think the friendly thing to do would be to persuade them to also play hit and run instead of hanging out there for many hours at a time playing incorrectly.
Quote: MrV*re-reads post, this time "correctly"*
My question is still valid, and points out the inherent inconsistency in your post.
If the best way to play is hit and run, why would you ever play otherwise?
If you're with friends one would think the friendly thing to do would be to persuade them to also play hit and run instead of hanging out there for many hours at a time playing incorrectly.
you can only bring the horse to water.
pl bet and odds I see as one bet and place bets are a separate wager as a group. if point is 5,6,8,9 I have 16-17 inside and 5 p/l ad $10 odds. no relation on each other as to how I play the others. Now I will say if the table is cold I usually drop the pass line bet and odds to limit my exposure to 22 per roll
I press after the 3rd hit when the point is inside and press the 5th hit when the point is a 4 or 10.
the one variation of this is when I am across (because a point is 4 or 10) and I hit the non point number before the normal press progression I follow I drop a dollar and go to $10 or 15 depending on where I stand overall
Quote: WatchMeWinyou can only bring the horse to water.
What bearing has horse hydration upon the matter at hand?
I point out some BS and you channel your inner Mr. Ed?
Quote: MrVGiven that belief, why do you often plan "to stay on a table for a long time?"
When you play hit and run it fools the house edge. Imagine walking up to someone from behind and tapping them on the left shoulder while you quickly move to the right. It fools them, but only very quickly. Same idea with craps. The house edge can be made to look silly and be fooled by quick movements in and out of a game.
ZCore13
Quote: worldhistoryguyhuuum why do I have a green dot on my icon? Am I flagged for a million dollar win next time out? Hope so.
Either that or You're signed in and on the site. One or the other.
ZCore13
Jerry
Quote: MrV*re-reads post, this time "correctly"*
My question is still valid, and points out the inherent inconsistency in your post.
If the best way to play is hit and run, why would you ever play otherwise?
If you're with friends one would think the friendly thing to do would be to persuade them to also play hit and run instead of hanging out there for many hours at a time playing incorrectly.
No inconsistencies. You are making assumptions and coming to you own conclusions. Just because I consider the best way to play craps by hitting and running, with great success I may add, it doesn't mean that I consider the other way of playing, which I described, is a bad way. If friends are hanging out at the tables and putting time in, sometimes I'll do that for the group camaraderie . It may be too complicated for you to understand, but it is fluid.
Quote: MrVWhat bearing has horse hydration upon the matter at hand?
I point out some BS and you channel your inner Mr. Ed?
Idiot... I mean Idiom! Did I say idiot? Sorry, I mean Its an idiom... yes, thats the word, Idiom. The whole lead the horse to water thing a gig is a figure of speech, silly. It is called an idiom. It wasnt meant to be taken literally. Im sorry I didnt clarify that for you. There are tons of websites that can explain it better if you want to read up on it and edumacate yourself on the subject matter. Idiom.. 3 syllables and pronounced like id -E -um.
If you want to profit consistently, then you better practice rolling and get a fairly consistent toss down. Doesn't matter if you roll well or not, it just needs to be consistent. Then you can adjust your dice set to account for your roll.
But dice setting aside, you need to reduce your risk exposure. Most consistent system if you're going to bet on other rollers, is to............
-Minimum on P/L
-Wait for shooter to establish point and then bet every box number(starting bet needs to be comfortable for your bankroll, and low enough to hedge 3 times and not hit table limit) Personally I start at 162$ across. 25$ on 4,5,9,10. And 30$ on 6,8. 2$ for the juice
-Let shooter hit one number and then turn your bets off.
-Wait and repeat on next shooter
-In the event of a honeymoon, your next bet is double. So it's 325$ across. HOWEVER, honeymoons tend to come in groups. Tables just tend to go cold. So to avoid getting sucked into a bet hedge on a cold table, I sit out for one shooter after a honeymoon. Frequently I have seen 4 concurring honeymoons in a row, so the sit out rule has saved me a number of times from having a negative day.
-Once a new shooter establishes a point number and hits at least one box number thereafter, I continue betting with the next shooter.
-With 325$ across, take the first box number hit and press every box number.
-The 2nd box number hit puts you almost back to even from your 162$ loss on the honeymoon.
-If another honeymoon hits, rinse and repeat with a 650$ across bet. Total of 1300$ to play out the system if you get caught on a 3rd honeymoon or 2 and out.
-To cut risk even farther, if the first roll after establishing a point is a 2,3,11,12. Just turn bets off and wait for next shooter. Most shooters can hit 2-3 rolls before 7 out.
Feel free to flame away. If anyone else is doing this for a living and has a better system, I'd love to hear it.
Quote: Anonmost of us know systems lose in the long run but i am curious which craps system have you used that lasted you the longest before failure?????? please include strategy and money management if you can ....
Craps "systems"= systematic series of wagers plus associated money management is not necessarily a way to find a "sure winner" but rather a way to generate interesting sets of results that hopefully will yield a profit (if the variance gods are on your side while you have money at stake).
I have a few different sets of "systems" that I enjoy using, under various specific sets of circumstances.
DP4/10 with lay plus Hard4/10 hedge bet.
Begins when- I put one or more units on the DP line, survive any comeout 7s/11s and the point number happens to be a 4 or 10.
If this happens, I will lay the maximum "odds" allowed by the house rules and then place a hard 4 or hard 10 that is proportional to my combined DP and lay wager. For example, If I have a $10DP with $ 0 odds (on a 3x4x5x table), I will wager $6 on the hard 4 or hard 10. You can still lose everything if a 4 or 10 comes easy. But its a nice grind waiting for the result, with a very modest chance of ruin (ruin=all wagers lost on hand)
Alternatiing iron cross when point is a 5
Begins when- I put one or more units on passline, and the point number established happens to be a 5. If this is the case, I add 6/8 place bets that exceed the passline wager by one unit. Then, every other throw, I put make a table minimum wager on a field number. Also, if the 6 or 8 place bet hits, I take that one place bet down one unit, down to table min (regression). I end up having a table min 6 and 8 and I continue to wager the field every other throw until the passline bet is resolved. there is still a chance of ruin here, esp with a PSO.
Then max odds. Unless I’m killing time, I refuse to play seriously for less than 100x odds.
Then one come bet with max odds, to go with the pass line bet.
I’m never shy about asking for comps. I’m nice and polite, but I make clear what I want.
All systems can not overcome the HE. Don’t ever pay anyone who claims to have a craps system. If a person claims to have a winning craps system, they are either a liar or delusional.
Quote: klimate10
All systems can not overcome the HE. Don’t ever pay anyone who claims to have a craps system. If a person claims to have a winning craps system, they are either a liar or delusional.
A system is not designed to overcome HE. And anyone that thinks the point of a system is to play it 24/7 with no breaks until the HE brakes you, is delusional themselves.
Quote: MisterManA system is not designed to overcome HE. And anyone that thinks the point of a system is to play it 24/7 with no breaks until the HE brakes you, is delusional themselves.
Says a guy that thinks practicing rolling makes a difference.
ZCore13
Quote: Zcore13Says a guy that thinks practicing rolling makes a difference.
ZCore13
Says a guy who regurgitates things he has read and won't pick the dice up himself to record results and know for himself.
That's the kick I always get out of this constant argument about dice setting. People love to talk crap(pun intended), but won't do the very simple leg work to just prove whether it works or not. Throw 1000 rolls of just grabbing and flinging the dice and record results. Then do a dice set and throw another 1000 rolls and compare results. When you're getting 7 come up far less times while setting, that's a huge advantage to you when you have a betting system to play around that. And it instantly shuts down the argument that setting doesn't work. Unless you're hung up on some idea that dice setting is to hit specific numbers, which no dice setter/controller has ever claimed.
But you're half right. The way to win isn't really based on setting. It is based on a risk reducing betting system. Setting dice is just going to get your win percentages up when you combine it with a good betting system.
Speaking of win percentages, that is what the mathematicians fallacy is. "Eventually the HE will win, so systems don't work". Using a betting system is no different than trading in the stock market. There doesn't seem to be any argument that trading stocks using certain strategies or systems to end the year with a net positive return, is legitimate. Despite the fact that no successful trader ever wins 100% of the trades they make. Gambling is no different. If you have a system that creates profit 80% of the time, then the system works. The problem is most people don't have the self control to stick to the system and accept a losing day as part of the process. If you're going to chase losses on a bad day, then you're not following the system. It doesn't mean the system doesn't work. It's simple math that if you cap your losses at 1000$ a day, and cap your wins at 500$ a day. Then an 80% win percentage nets you an average of 2000$ every 10 days. Was the HE of the game manipulated? No. Did the system win every time? No. Was there a positive cash flow? YES. So the theoretical HE is irrelevant as far as determining if a system works or not.
Anyway, do whatever you please. I have zero to gain by sharing my information. I don't teach setting, I don't sell any systems, I don't have any website I'm trying to drive traffic to. So I have zero reasons to BS about this either.
Played with Doc and rdw4potus, Harrahs LV, Fri May 18, my 22nd wedding anniversary. (I'm divorced, but the wedding was a party for the ages, so we celebrated it anyway). They can verify this sequence, though Doc wasn't feeling too great that night.
Mostly full $10 3x4x5x table after dinner. I threw 3 hands. First game of 2018 for me.
Always flying V (3s) some sets pointed up, some down. 3 finger grasp, medium loft, left hand, stick left 2. I set quickly, throw within 3-5 seconds of receiving dice, hate waiting for a long routine.
Superstition: while setting V, never show the table a 7.
Betting 2 way ATS, own passline w/2x odds.
Hand 1: Craps, PSO in 4 rolls.
Hand 2: Craps, Made 1 point, 7out. 8 rolls. Stick shoved a 7 at me roll before I went out. Grrr.
Hand 3: Craps start, 7win reset ATS, 27 rolls. Made Small, only needed boxcars for Tall/All. Received much dealer love. Made 3 points. Index finger slipped and lost right die, which fell short of the wall by 2 feet. Left die was a 6 . Right die (foul) was a 1. Crew said, "there are no 'no rolls' at this table". Yeah, I asked, politely. So much for their (and my) A/T bet, sadly.
Small data set. But very typical for me since I started using this set (setting at all). I played Craps 7 times in 2017, maybe 8 times in 2016. Can't get paid on fire bet. Have made ATS 3 times, Small 4 times (now), Tall 2 times in that many sessions, most 1/2 hour to 1 hour. One session was almost 3 hours, but we were drinking premium liquor. Started that night with Small +1 away, couldn't improve it.
So, yeah, I think there is something to setting the dice so that they have to take a maximum dissimilar spin to add up to 7. It's also fun to think so.
And don't shove a 7 at me when I'm trying to tip you!
Quote: MisterManWhen you're getting 7 come up far less times while setting.
Welcome to the forum. I am a doubter that setting the dice changes the random outcomes that you would expect from rolling them down a craps table towards that wall with fancy pyramids. I have made a 'challenge' here a few years back that a member who made claims like you could not roll fewer 7's than would be expected by a random tosser like myself. I won the challenge.
How few 7's do you think you could roll out of say 1000 rolls? Do you think you can hold your sevens down to 140 or less?