Advice on taking pictures of video screens

Aficionados of my work know I take a lot of pictures of video slot, poker, and keno screens. It is not easy getting such pictures in focus. The other day I took in my fancy Nikon camera and put in on manual focus, and took the picture below, which turned out awful.


Click on image for larger version.

I've had better luck with my simple Cannon point-n-shoot. For example, this picture:



Click on image for larger version.

Even with that many pictures come out blurry. It seems to be almost random how the camera will focus, and I have to try several times to get one as good as the above, and even that one isn't that great.

So, I think you can see my dilemma. I'm not sure who the forum photography expert is, so I'll open it up to everybody.

It looks like your manual photo is over-exposed. You might try a faster shutter speed. Even if you over-shoot on the shutter speed correction, it's easier to lighten than to darken later. Also, focusing on a light source is a hard thing to do. You could try focusing on something the same distance away, like a speaker on the machine or the manufacturer's logo, and then taking your pictures of the screen.

Along the lines of what rdw4potus said, it looks like the aperature was open for too long and you are seeing camera shake. If you put the camera in manual mode, I would set the ISO to 1600 (could vary based on the camera), the f/stop to about 4 or lower, then adjust the shutter speed to get the exposure correct. On my camera, it shows whether the exposure is high or low when I look through the viewfinder, then adjust it from there. Take one picture and see if it is exposed correctly and adjust the shutter speed as necessary. A lower shutter speed number will result in a brighter picture, because the number is represented by an integer, but the amount of time the shutter is open is 1/shutter speed number, so a shutter speed of 100 is 1/100 second. I would recommend no slower than 1/100 of a second and if you can't get the right exposure at that speed, then you'll need to increase the ISO or decrease the f/stop. You also need to be aware of the metering pattern. On my camera, I can choose spot metering, center weighted, and matrix, which covers the whole screen. I think I would recommend using the matrix metering for this application.

If you'll tell us what kind of Nikon you have, and what lenses you use (with focal length and f/stop numbers), it will help a lot.

It always amazes me when I see people at a conference taking a photo of the slide show, and they have the flash on. I suspect you're smarter than that.

A problem with auto focus could be that it focuses on the glass rather than the image below it. Again, I doubt that's your problem.

I agree that it's probably over exposed.

Sorry I couldn't provide better advice.

The Nikon photo is soft, but the softness doesn't appear to be from motion blur. Once you have manually focused (and confirmed that the image is sharp), do not to change camera's position until after you have snapped the photo.

Of course, hold still (and hold your breath) during the exposure to avoid motion blur. As others have mentioned, a faster shutter speed also helps prevent motion blur. In addition, enable any optical or digital image stabilization features on your camera.

In regards to exposure, both images look a little blown out. If the photo from the Nikon was shot in "raw" mode, you might be able to regain some of the detail in the brighter areas. It looks like you could have increased your shutter speed at least one stop to darken it (and, at the same time, reduce motion blur).

If you are using the optical viewfinder on your Nikon, try using the view screen (or "preview mode") instead, especially if you are focusing manually. That method should help in getting better exposures. Also, if you know how to use your camera's histogram and/or zebra feature, you can get good exposures every time.

By the way, if your camera has a "digital zoom" feature, then it is easy to get extremely sharp focus in preview mode.

There are two other problems I see in the Nikon image: reflections; and keystoning/distortion. To get rid of the reflections, wear a black featureless shirt, and position the camera higher, so that the black shirt is what reflects in the glass -- not the ceiling lights and other slot machines. To prevent the keystoning/distortion, step back a little from the screen and position the camera more "square-on" to the screen. The increased distance will also reduce the visible reflections, but it will require a tighter zoom, which could necessitate a faster shutter speed to prevent motion blur.

Thanks for all the help thus far.

Quote: CrystalMath

If you'll tell us what kind of Nikon you have, and what lenses you use (with focal length and f/stop numbers), it will help a lot.

I have a Canon EOS Rebel T3i. I have a Nikon as well, but it is an older model. Somehow I got the two brands mixed up. The lens is an "EFS 18-55mm".

Which fancy Nikon is it? A DSLR, or a high quality point & shoot?

Speaking as a guy with lots and lots of camera gear: most situations for which a person would need an image captured, a decent point & shoot set to full automatic is the best solution. If you're up close, choose the flower, if you're far away choose the mountain.

The hardware of digital photography has been pretty much static over the past 5-8 years (excepting developments like micro 4/3); most companies are pouring the R&D money into software like face detection, automatic image processing, etc. And that software is going into the market where it makes the most difference, the low and medium point and shoots used by people for vacation and casual photography.

Myself, for almost any photography that isn't for the pure purpose of creating images, I leave the dreadnought cameras and lenses at home and take the pocket point and shoot. Set to full auto. Flower for close, mountain for far. Some pretty smart people thought a lot about those settings, and I paid for them, so I'm going to use them.

Set the Canon to "P". Leave the autofocus on. If you are within 3' of your objective, choose the flower (technical term is "macro"). If you are in low light, choose 1600 ISO, or you could leave it on "auto ISO", it will choose 1600 by itself.

"P" chooses shutter and aperture without allowing the flash. In low light you want the highest shutter speed you can get. The T3i will optimize the shutter in low light; it will max out aperture first, then adjust the shutter.

Quote: Wizard

I have a Canon EOS Rebel T3i. I have a Nikon as well, but it is an older model. Somehow I got the two brands mixed up. The lens is an "EFS 18-55mm".

I have a T3i with the 18-55mm lens, too.

- Make sure that the "stabilizer" switch on the lens is "on" (works best when the camera is oriented horizontally);
- Set the focus switch on the lens to "MF" (manual focus);
- Set the mode knob on top of the camera to "M" (manual);
- Set your ISO to the desired sensitivity (press the ISO button, then rotate the wheel near the shutter) -- you probably don't need more than 400 ISO (a lower number means less noise).
- To go into "preview" mode, press the button that has an icon of a camera (to the right of the viewfinder);
- Adjust the aperture (press down the "Av" button while rotating the wheel near the shutter) to a few clicks from it's brightest setting;
- Adjust the shutter (rotate the wheel near the shutter) until the brightness looks good in the view screen (note: if you press the "Info" button a few times, your display info will cycle through until live histograms appear);
- To magnify the focus, press once or twice digital zoom button (the blue magnifying glass icon with the "+" sign);
- Focus;
- Don't move the camera and press the digital zoom button again until the normal frame appears;
- Frame-up the slot screen, hold your breath and gently click the shutter;
- Playback the image and zoom in to check focus and exposure.

Thanks everybody for all your advice. I indeed think that increasing the shutter speed was the key. Here again is the "automatic" picture below.


Click on any image for larger version.

Here is a picture taken with my simple Canon Power Shot on 1600 ISO. I didn't do anything else special.



What a difference. I also tried some at 3200 ISO, and they seemed about the same as at 1600.

Here are some more for you.







I throw in the one with my dog for fun. That was back on "automatic."

Quote: Wizard

Thanks everybody for all your advice. I indeed that increasing the shutter speed was the key. Here again is the "automatic" picture below.

Wow! Like night & day. Great pictures. So great in fact, that the glare / reflections are easily overlooked.

Quote: Wizard

I throw in the one with my dog for fun. That was back on "automatic."

Yeah, well, automatic IS designed for the type of pictures that typical / non-photographer types are shooting. I.E. The photo of you and your dog is a perfect example.

What is your dog's name?