So why not get the full bang for your buck and learn something like Hi/Low?
Romes, what do you think of KO for beginners (or TKO)? With maybe 4 index plays & insurance?
I think KO/TKO was an easy unbalanced count when I played it almost 20 years ago ("All Sevens" 1992, Ken Fuchs 1998 book). Very easy to use on 1-2-4-6-8 decks, and plenty of index counts if I felt like remembering all the variations.
Thought it was not strong as others for playing indicies or third base single-deck, but reading some threads about PE (Playing Efficiency) & BC (Betting Correlation) today, maybe I'm out of date. How do the single count systems compare these days? (versus...Snyder Zen 1983 or Wong Halves 1970, which I hear a lot).https://www.blackjackinfo.com/community/threads/tko-advantage-by-count.23050/https://www.blackjackinfo.com/community/threads/why-is-the-playing-efficiency-higher-for-ko-than-hi-lo.7512/
Thanks, Romes for any advice you have.
...or if you can link me to other good discussions on WoV or other forums.
P.S. Great intro article on A-Z Blackjack at WizardofOdds.
(1) My personal preference would be to discuss RoR before even "basic strategy". Elementary RoR will allow people a better chance to win...even when playing a losing game. Especially since you need about 20-60 hrs of play before any "edge" (from basic counting) overcomes variance.
(2) For beginners, there's an interesting set of curves you can compute. Expected lowest loss (90%, 95%, 99%) before eventually profiting when using XYZ strategy (e.g. 1.2% edge, bet spread $25-125, Y game conditions). For a losing game, you can also compute expected highest win before eventually losing to house edge.
For example, spreading $5-25 you might have an (95%) expected -$400 loss on game X with edge 1.2%, before you eventually win.
Or, playing basic strategy at a -.5% loss with 0% errors, betting $5 flat, you might have a possible (95%) +$200 gain on game X, conditions Y,...before you eventually lose. And you might expect to last Y hours before running out of Z bankroll. The fun one for beginners is to show how 1-2 errors/hour drastically affects there results. Once I was chatting with a guy playing blackjack. He came to vegas to throw a wedding for his daughter, because hotels & expenses were so much cheaper. I made a very rare suggestion on his play, and after a few hours he mentioned how his money seemed to be lasting a lot longer... :-)
It's a bit more visceral for beginners, rather than saying you need a 400-600 unit bankroll for X% RoR.
(3) I play a LOT of losing games (-EV). If you can work with RoR...and you get lucky, you can sometimes go hours/days/weeks/months/years on a losing game by managing your bets.
One AP friend had a strategy of blowing $30 for fun at the end of each day. One time he hit $20K with only $18 into one machine. $20K can last a long time at -$30/day. :-)
(4) For an amateur or recreational player, CE (Certainty Equivalent) may include a lot of "having fun". If you make $10-200/hr (pre-tax) at your day job, having fun might have a CE of $8-120/hr (post-tax), and if you win, that's just an extra bonus.
On my last trip to Vegas (3 weeks over Xmas & New Years), I wasn't trying so much to make a profit. Cash-wise lost/spent -$2,400, and had a pretty good time.
(5) Also, for a lot of people on budgets (even very big bankrolls), CE of reduced variance (from using 0.25 Kelly, rather than full Kelly) may mean that maximizing +EV/hr doesn't have the highest CE (for them).
Last edited by: mamat on Jan 11, 2017